Yet another advantage of cruising? You visit ports that you probably would not have found on your own. We had never heard of Aalborg before our Viking cruise.
Is Aalborg Europe’s happiest city? The tourist board certainly thinks so and after spending the morning with Jane, our cheerful–and informative– tour guide, I think it might just be.
Jane told us residents are happy because they feel safe and they have what they need. Although taxes are high, there is no charge for education, pensions are universal and health care is provided. University students live in cheap apartments, get a stipend and have free tuition. In Denmark, Jane told us, people are cared for.
What I found interesting is that although mothers get one year paid maternity leave, and families receive a per child payment, the average family size is less than two. Especially with those long winter nights…
Aalborg is a lovely little city, very clean, artistic, and orderly, with a nice mix of old, preserved buildings along more modern edifices.
The Jens Bang house (on the left) was built in 1624. Mr Bang was a very successful merchant, but unfortunately was never accepted by the power structure.
He took architectural revenge, however, by decorating the side facing city hall with these grimacing creatures, who are sticking their tongues out at the politicians of the day.
Here’s a closer look.
The rather irreverent Danish sense of humor continues to this day, as displayed in these figures found in a gift shop.
No, I didn’t buy any presents here.
Our tour included a visit to the monastery/nunnery, where proximity led to a flurry of construction. It seems that in the 1400’s, unplanned pregnancies were resolved by bricking up the nuns (into walls) where they (and their unborn children) were left to die.
What a difference a few centuries can make!
We also visited the local churches where we saw something rather novel: refreshments being offered in the church proper. They really ARE a very welcoming community!
Sign posted outside a church. I guess when you feel happy an cared for, that feeling can be extended to others that are less fortunate.
As with other Scandinavian churches, this one had a ship hanging from the ceiling, which we were told is meant to symbolize passage from this world into the next.
If you happen to visit Aalborg and have a hankering for some good ol’ American fare, not to worry. This wonderful town has you covered.
On our way back to the ship we were treated to a “reenactment”, something those of us in the northeast are all quite familiar with.
As the ship pulled out of port, residents gathered to bid us farewell, waving flags while loudspeakers broadcast Danish music.
Yep, they sure looked happy. And we were too, after spending the morning with them!
The great thing about cruising? You get to sample lots of different places without having to pack and unpack. The downside? Your stay in a fantastic country like Denmark is way too short. Not only that, but you are doing so much and seeing so much, your blogging gets delayed till you get home. Then, if you are me, months later you start looking at photos and trying to decipher your notes only to realize how much you have forgotten.
Our Viking itinerary included two stops in Denmark–a full day in Copenhagen and a half day in Alborg. For both stops, we opted to take the included Viking tours, and we were quite happy with our decision.
Of course, we knew we HAD to see the iconic Danish landmark, The Little Mermaid, which was within walking distance of our ship.
What was surprising to me was how close she is to the shore. It was possible to climb out to join her on the rock, an impulse our guide requested that we resist. Other tourists, however, did not feel so constrained. I’m thinking that I probably shouldn’t have waited till they cleared off to take my shot. It might have been a far more amusing photo to see them cavorting alongside her.
Our guide mentioned that the mermaid has a less famous sister down the road a bit, who is affectionately known as the “Dolly Parton version”. Hmmm, wonder why Walt Disney didn’t include HER in his movie?
Also alongside the harbor is the Opera House, a gift from Maersk Mc-Kinney Moeller, the Danish shipping magnate. The building design has been compared to a spaceship, the grill of a 55 Pontiac and a fly. Maersk Mc-Kinney Moeller’s response to suggestions for modifications? “I’m giving you a gift, not a gift certificate.”
The Danes are rightfully proud that the harbor is so clean that you can swim in it. In fact, someone used the roof of the opera house as a diving board to prove that very point. (Was it Maersk Mc-Kinney Moeller? Unfortunately, I don’t remember — but I DO remember that Maersk lived 98 years, so maybe. I certainly had fun envisioning the old guy balancing on the roof’s edge. )
Copenhagen is a lovely city with the requisite number of palaces, towers, forts, churches and statues. Here are just a few of the images from our city tour.
This horseman is surrounded by four identical buildings, all housing members of the royal family.Notice the three crowns atop the tower. If my memory is accurate (and that is a pretty big “if”), they represent the three countries of Scandinavia.A profound quote from our former president, is as relevant today as it was a half century ago.
We were getting close to experiencing sensory overload, so after the tour concluded, we returned to the ship for lunch. The fortress was within walking distance of the ship and was the perfect place to spend the rest of our time in port.
Who knew that a fortress could be so peaceful?
Another beautiful departure, as we headed for our next stop: Aalborg.
Berlin showed up on our Viking itinerary as one of the ports of call. Geography never was my strong suit, but even I knew that Berlin has no oceanfront property. Although Viking arranged free transportation by train to Berlin, we decided that we didn’t want to spend approximately 6 hours traveling back and forth. Besides, we will probably never get back to Rostock and Warnemunde, but a few days in Berlin may indeed be in our future.
We did not regret our decision. Our day started with a German breakfast of pretzels and “liquid gold”, the German invention we Americans call beer.
Our brewery tour included a choice of light or dark beer.
Our guide, Enrico, shared lots of fun facts about 9th century beer consumption:
Beer was given to children because it was cleaner than the available water
It was drunk warm, like soup from a bowl
The monks consumed beer during their fasts; apparently it didn’t count because you didn’t chew it?
Beer was also thought of as liquid bread.
Fast forward to modern times:
Germans consume approximately 30 gallons of beer per person per year.
You can buy beer anywhere and consume it anywhere. It is okay to be intoxicated in public, just as long as you don’t do something stupid. (A drunk person doing something stupid? How often does THAT happen?)
Beer isn’t taxed, and the drinking age is 16. Sorry kiddies–that’s the down side of having access to clean water.
The last two weeks of September is Oktoberfest in Munich, where the locals don their Bavarian costumes and yodel a lot. If Enrico explained why Oktoberfest occurred in September, I have completely forgotten it. That’s what happens when you write a post months after a trip occurred!
The beer labels at this brewery were quite interesting
Clearly this beer is not one that would be a huge success in the USA
Next stop was the lovely little town of Rostock, formerly part of East Germany. Enrico told us that on November 9, 1989, the citizens of Rostock danced on the wall in celebration of the peaceful revolution. Germans commemorate October 3rd, 1990 as their reunification date, with a festival at the Brandenburg Gate.
We didn’t see the Brandenburg Gate on THIS trip, but we DID see Rostock’s Stone Gate.
Enrico pointed out that there are no pigeons hanging out in this particular tower. The reason? The bricks were drenched with bulls’ blood. Why that makes a difference, I don’t know. I also don’t know whether cow’s blood–or any other animal’s blood would also do the trick. After my beer breakfast, my mind wasn’t sharp enough to ask such insightful questions.
Other highlights of Rostock were its public University
Enrico in front of Rostock University, which was established in 1419.
Its lovely town square, surrounded by beautiful medieval buildings,
and playful fountains.
Kids enjoying the fountain in the town square
The Germans, like many Europeans, have a more open attitude about bodies and sexuality, as demonstrated by this bench in the fountain. (Yes indeed, it was IN the fountain)
What better way to follow up our time by the fountain than with a visit to St. Mary’s Church? Construction of this church initially took place in the 13th century, with renovations and restorations repairing subsequent damage that war and religious differences wreaked.
This was the first time we saw a ship dangling from a church ceiling, but it wasn’t the last.This clock inside St. Mary’s Church is incredible. The craftsman ship is amazing. So much detail!
We were fortunate to have a guide who is getting his degree in education. And what a wonderful teacher he will be. He shared information about German culture and society. Food in German is inexpensive, education is free and health care is free. The state pays 185 Euros per child per month to parents. All this is funded by a 35% income tax, with additional funding from taxes generated by exports.
One of the advantages of travel is learning how different societies address their problems. Enrico’s thesis is on what he termed America’s fascination with guns. As a contrast, he explained that 95% of the German police never fire their guns during their entire career. When they do, they aim for the culprit’s leg.
Our return to Warnemunde was via a ferry. Although the weather wasn’t the best, we wandered around this little seaside town, enjoying the sights.
WarnemundeWith skies like these, we decided not to linger
The best part of our decision to stay local was we had the rest of the afternoon to enjoy the beautiful Viking ship. We were welcomed back with open arms, and with glasses of champagne.
Another bonus? It was easy to get a reservation at The Chef’s Table, our favorite specialty restaurant.
Okay, just ONE food photo. This first of five courses, beef carpaccio, gives you an idea of the artistry of the Chef’s Table’s offerings. And yes, that red goblet by the plate is indeed a paired wine.
Because we weren’t exhausted from a long trip to Berlin, we had enough energy to visit Torshaven, Viking’s cozy little nightclub. Here’s the band belting out some Gloria Estevan songs that they learned at the request of our friend, Jeanne.
Our Viking tour had us scheduled for only a half day in Poland. We docked in Gdynia, which just happened to be the departure port for my husband’s grandmother, who was pregnant with his mother when she left Poland in 1923, searching for a better life in the USA. So that was kinda cool.
The tour choices were limited–a free city tour of Gdansk, or the optional tours to Stutthof Concentration Camp or Malbork Castle. Given that we had never been to Poland before, we chose the Gdansk city tour.
I’ll confess that I didn’t expect much. Squished between the two warring superpowers of Germany and Russia, it had been a battleground more times than I cared to count. Here’s what Gdansk looked like in 1945, after the Russians got through with it.
First surprise was the 45 minute ride to Gdansk. The main road was clean and green, with lovely trees, flowers and public buildings along the way. We stopped briefly at the Oliwa Cathedral, (which didn’t much impress me), drove by Lech Walesa’s house (I don’t think he was home), then arrived at the city that for a brief period was known as Danzig. (Until we arrived there I hadn’t made the connection. I really should have paid closer attention in World History, Freshman year.)
“Amazed” doesn’t quite capture what I felt when I saw how this city had been restored to its former glory. It is incredibly beautiful!
I love the pedestrian walkways in the old section of the city.
It was not too crowded, because it was relatively early on a Sunday morning
I also wasn’t aware that Daniel Farenheit was born in Gdansk– are we starting to see a trend here? In my defense, however, he lived most of his life in the Dutch Republic. Still, Gdansk is where he got his start and the city is rightfully proud of him.
Tribute to Farenheit in Gdansk
Another of Gdansk’s claims to fame is the 14th century human powered crane that was used to load and unload cargo, and is still in working condition. If you walk along the river, you will come to the brick building that houses the crane and its giant treadmill.
Here’s a scale model of the crane, the way it would appear from the river, a vantage point I didn’t have for my photographs.Workers would be strutting their stuff, inside this giant wheel shaped treadmill, which powered the crane. Am I the only one that sees a great opportunity for an exercise video? Just add music and spandex!
I loved the architecture–the attention to detail. Check out these beautiful buildings.
The building fas seen from a distanceA up close viewThe scales of justice appear atop several buildings
Everywhere you looked, you saw something beautiful. Even the sewer covers were artistic! If you click on the individual photos you should be able to get it to enlarge.
This restored building was originally built in 1605.
One of several gates to the city
And if you don’t think all of this is pretty bloody amazing, take another look at the 1945 photo to see the city after the Russians got through bombing it to kingdom come. The Poles have a lot to be proud of. (And I have a lot of Polish friends and relatives!)
Despite being well fed on the ship, we stopped in a little outdoor cafe, where I had the most incredible hot fudge sundae EVER. Now I’m regretting not taking a picture of it — it was so gorgeous, not to mention delicious. Oh well, you’ll just have to trust me on that one–till you can visit Gdansk and experience it for yourself.
One last sight before I end this post. Neptune’s fountain. It is definitely worthy of multiple views.
One thing about the free Viking tours–it truly is the luck of the draw. We drove right by the Solidarity Monument without stopping. Friends that were on a later tour were able to get off the bus for a closer look, something that I would have liked to have done.
The take away? I have a much greater appreciation for Poland and all it has to offer. The great thing about a cruise is it helps you identify the places you want to visit again and linger.
Tallinn was the perfect respite from the opulence and grandeur of St. Petersburg. We boarded a bus early in the morning for Viking’s included walking tour of the old town. Our ship wasn’t scheduled to depart until 9 PM that evening, so my thinking was that the tour would give us an overview and we would return later to visit the sights that most interested us. At least that was the initial plan.
I don’t know whether it was the dreary weather, or the lingering effects of sensory overload from St. Petersburg, but after the tour concluded, WE concluded that the afternoon would be best spent partaking in some of the delights aboard our lovely ship. Still, we have a few photos to share:
Notice the umbrellas in the foreground. It rained off and on during the tour.View of the medieval “lower town” from a lookout in the “upper town”.
Cars and buses are not allowed inside Tallinn’s old town, so we followed the city wall down the hill to the town square,
main square
where we found an abundance of shops, cafes, and a medieval pharmacy, which is still in operation today.
We didn’t need to replenish our supply of wood louse infusions, earthworms in oil, or dried deer penises, so we left the pharmacy empty handed.
The Estonians seem to like three dimensional advertising. Here are just a few examples.
I loved the fire breathing dragon with the crown on his head, and the maiden advertising the “super sale”? She had lots of similarly attired companions scattered throughout the square.
That evening, we had dinner at one of Viking’s specialty restaurants, The Chef’s Table. This is a five course fixed menu, with wine pairings. That evening we enjoyed the “Asian Panorama” menu. The fixed menus change every three days, and we sampled three of them!
We started with chilled king crab made with coconut foam and curry, followed by lobster and chicken shu mai, which was a soft dumpling. Now ordinarily, I am not a fan of either of those seafood items, but these were delicious.
Next up was a lemongrass and red chili granita with lychee foam (there was a whole lot of foaming in this restaurant), followed by the main course–Peking duck with a mandarin pancake. Dessert was an Asian trilogy of chocolate banana spring roll, green tea cheesecake and yuzu creme brulee.
Unfortunately, I didn’t photograph the food–I was way too busy eating, drinking and talking, but if I had, you would have seen that the portions weren’t huge. At the end of the meal we were satisfied, not stuffed!
Our happy traveling companions, at the end of our dinner, after lots of wine!
Usually my blog functions as a substitute for postcards. It is a way to stay connected with family and friends–a way for them to share in the wonder and excitement of travel without enduring the long plane rides, jet lag, and other miscellaneous discomforts of life on the road.
For this cruise, however, the free wifi was not robust enough to allow photo uploads. Being a very visual person, I saw no point in posting without photos. So, now that I’m home, I’m playing catch up. These postcards were way delayed! But maybe my posts will be helpful to anyone that is considering the Viking Homelands cruise, or might be touring any of the Baltic ports we visited.
Now about Helsinki…
Helsinki was the perfect respite between the two sensory overload ports of Stockholm and St. Petersburg. We took the included Viking tour, which was a morning bus trip with three stops. And that was enough for us.
First stop was the Sibelius monument, which consists of 600 welded stainless steel tubes,
The individual pipes really are quite spectacular
and a bust of the composer.
Is it just me, or does it look like he’s been beheaded and impaled?
The guide told us that Sibelius’s bust had seven wrinkles–one for each of his symphonies. I wasn’t able to verify, but I’m not so sure I like that way of displaying accomplishments. If that were the universal yardstick, I’m either way behind with achievements or way ahead with wrinkles.
Our guide told us that when Sibelius died in 1957, at the age of 91, the US Embassy was the only one to have a moment of silence in his honor. Nicely done, USA.
Next up, the Rock Church, which is not its real name, but its real name is long, hard to spell, and not as descriptive. So here’s the story: two brothers got the bright idea to hollow out an enormous hunk of granite, turning it into, of all things, a church. Lo and behold, their idea was the competition winner. After four years of applications, permits and paperwork, plus one year of construction, the church was completed. And here you have it.
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Our final stop was at Senate Square, where Russian Tsar Alexander ll stands, with the Finnish constitution in his hand and a bird atop his head (Just so you know, the bird is not a permanent part of the statue). He was quite beloved in Finland, much more so than in Russia, where he was assassinated after freeing the slaves, providing an example of common ground between Russia and the USA.
Behind him is the Lutheran Church, which we opted not to visit. Did you see all those steps? Instead, we stopped inside the tourist information center, where we discovered this promotional brochure from a Finnish company.
The Bonk BrochureOne of many hilarious pages
Okay, I’ll admit it. I was completely taken in by this brochure, and thought that 1. the company was real, and 2. that it had an amazing sense of humor.
Being a curious soul and having access to the internet, I decided to check this company out and discovered that it is actually fictional — the work of Finnish painter and sculptor Alvar Gullichsen. I wish I’d known that when we were in Helsinki. I would have explored that yellow building in the background, rather than posing for a color coordinated photo.
Ahhh, Stockholm–there is so much to love about you! It’s a nice place to visit and I definitely would like to live here, but only in the summer. Arriving two days before we were scheduled to board the Viking Star was a very good decision indeed.
I haven’t done a numbered list in a while, so don’t you think it is time? Why not throw out 10 somewhat random reasons to love the city? There clearly are many, many more, but hey, we were a bit jet lagged and at our age, it is all about quality time. (Or was “quality time” what I told myself our kid was getting so I didn’t feel guilty about being a working mom? Doesn’t matter –both apply.)
1. THE INHABITANTS Everyone speaks English, and they do so willingly and cheerfully, without trying to make you feel stupid for being uni-lingual.
Boston Grill in Stockholm? They also had a TGI Fridays and a Texas Longhorn Steakhouse. We ate at none of them!They also like our music!
2. THE MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM Mass transit is easy to decipher, affordable, and appears to run constantly. We rarely had to wait more than 5 minutes, frequently less. Thanks to Rick Steves, we knew we should get the SL card, which was sold at Arlanda Airport. For about $16 (the Senior rate), we got a card good for 72 hours worth of rides on all modes of transportation: T-Bana, ferries and buses. When we departed, we still had 4 hours remaining, so we gave our cards (yes they are transferable) to our friends. What a deal!
Our friends, Edie and Ayhan, displaying the magic card as they get ready to board.
3. GAMLA STAN, THE OLD CITY The old town is absolutely charming. During the ’80s the government wanted to demolish the old buildings, replacing them with concrete and steel skyscrapers. Fortunately, the citizenry protested vigorously, and the idea was abandoned. Good thing, wouldn’t your say?
Former stock exchange, now Nobel MuseumIn this square, Swedish leaders were beheaded by the Danes. The son of one of the victims escaped, led a successful revolution and became Sweden’s first king.Tourists trying to distract the guard at the palaceThe King overlooks the harbor
We followed part of Rick’s recommended walk, but after about 5 minutes worth of the Changing of the Guard, we’d had enough. My assessment? I wish we’d chosen another activity, like visiting the Nobel Museum. The Changing of the Guard consumed far too much time. It starts around noon, but you have to get their early enough to be able to see anything, especially if you want a bench in the shade. Benches were occupied, so we grabbed a column with a pedestal that we climbed upon. Even so, this was our view.
It helps to have a good zoom lensNotie the number of women in uniform?
4. THE RIVAL HOTEL
Less than three blocks from the T-Bana, in Sodermalm, this little boutique hotel is ideally located. You can sip wine on the restaurant’s balcony while you watch men play bocce in the park across the street.
The Rival Hotel balconyStatue in the parkThe view from the room. Good thing the blinds closed!
We booked directly with the hotel, prepaid 6 months in advance, to get an amazing rate. The room was small, but very comfortable, although I must admit to being mystified by the strategic placement of the bathroom window. This is ONE throne room we didn’t want to view!
5. Kungsträdgärden
Perhaps those long winter months make the Swedes cherish these long, glorious summer days. It looked like EVERYONE was outside on this Saturday night, having a wonderful time.
Kids love bubbles!Chess game in the parkFree rock concertHow did he DO that?
6. VASAMUSEUM Can you imagine spending months of your life creating glorious carvings that will ultimately become bulls-eyes for cannonballs? What were they thinking??? Fortunately, this ship was as top heavy as a playboy centerfold, and shortly after setting sail, it flipped on its side, then sank to the bottom of the harbor, where it remained for over 300 years.
Reproduction95% of the ship is the original!
The museum is absolutely fascinating, especially for those of us that grew up in a former whaling port. The admission price (It was less than $20), includes a film and a guided tour. I thought “Vasa” was Swedish for boat, because “Vaca” is the Maori word and “Barco” is the Spanish word. But no, the ship was named after Gustav Vasa. He was the son of one of the beheaded victims (at the fountain) who led the revolution against the Danes and became Sweden’s first king.
We used our SL ticket to catch the ferry to Djurgården, and used it again to ride a tram between the Vasa Museum and Skansen.
7. SKANSEN The Swedes call it an open air museum. WE called it the Swedish version of Plimoth Plantation and Waterloo Village. We had the perfect day and the perfect setting for strolling outdoors.
A model of SkansenWhat kid wouldn’t love these?Feeling adventurous?A beautiful garden with a beautiful view
8. CITY HALL You may never win a Nobel prize, but that doesn’t mean you can’t visit the banquet hall and stand on the staircase where the presentations are made. The blue hall (which isn’t blue) is where the prize winners receive applause and a free meal.
Although I have not visited every city hall, I going to proclaim that this is one of the most (if not THE most) glorious one on this planet. The location, the mosaics, the architecture–all breathtaking!
It is hard to capture the beauty of the gold leaf mosaics in a photo. This hall was exquisite.
And if you have any breath left after touring city hall, you can climb #9.
9. CITY HALL TOWER Timed tickets ensure that the tower is not overcrowded. Yes, it IS 365 steps to get to the top, but it is SO worth the climb to for sn aerial view of Gamla Stan. Wouldn’t you agree? There are nine bells in the tower, and we made sure that we were not standing beneath them when they rang.
365 steps later, this is what we saw. And yes, that is our ship in the distance.The grounds surrounding city hall, as seen from the tower.
10. FOTOGRAFISKA MUSEUM Such luck! Our last day in port coincided with our friends’ arrival, allowing us just enough time to meet Edie and Ayhan in Gamla Stan for coffee. Right smack dab on our route to the Viking Star was the Fotografisca Museum, so of course we HAD to stop.
Our ship is reflected in this portrait of Amy Winehouse.
I had no idea that Bryan Adams was a Renaissance man–a musician AND a very talented photographer. I’m betting ( And it’s a petty safe bet) that his access to the celebrities was because of HIS fame. But for me, the most memorable part of the exhibit (and most emotional) were his photos of the British soldiers wounded in Afghanistan and Iraq.
Something tells me this won’t be our last visit to Stockholm!
My last post about Tibet was a bit of a downer, wasn’t it? As my friend Sally reminded me, “not every place is lovable”, but as with all travel, there are always positive elements, whether it be a greater understanding of a particular culture or country, or an increase in self knowledge.
We not only saw the exterior of the iconic Potala Palace, we were also able to climb to the top and visit some of the interior on our way up. Built by the fifth Dalai Lama in the late 1600’s on the site of Songzen Gampo’s palace, it became the winter residence of successive Dalai Lamas. Photographs are not allowed of any of the interior rooms, but they were so dark, smoky and gloomy, it would have been difficult to get a good shot anyway.
The red sections were for religious studies; the white sections were the living quarters of the Dalai Lamas
The palace, 13 stories high, offers a great view of the city of Lhasa.
The view from the top of the Potala
Here’s a different view, showing the modern city the Chinese have built around the Potala.
It was so hard to imagine a small child being taken from his family and brought to live in this massive place, surrounded by monks who were charged with his instruction. The current Dalai Lama was two years old when he was identified. He spent two years in a monastery near his family’s home in Amdo, then moved to the Potala two years later.
The summer palace, the Norbulingkha (Treasure Park) has a very different feel to it. This was built in the mid 18th century by the 7th Dalai Lama. It is actually quite close to the winter palace. The largest horticultural park in Tibet, it includes a private zoo, which wasn’t open when I visited. At one time it housed an elephant that was a gift from the Maharaja of Nepal.
Heinrich Harrer conducted lessons with the 14th (current) Dalai Lama in the summer palace. It was from this site that the Dalai Lama departed in 1959 to escape from the Chinese. Another fun fact: According to Harrer in his book “Seven Years in Tibet”, women were not allowed in the Norbulingkha because it was believed that they would have defiled the gardens.
Two famous monasteries in Lhasa are located near the palaces. The Drepung monastery was being repaired, so we only visited the Sera Monastery. I was disappointed because I had learned in my pre trip reading that Tibet’s creation story was told in murals at the entrance of the Drepung Monastery, and I had hoped to see it.
What we DID see were the Sera monks interacting in an outdoor courtyard. That yellow hats on their shoulders? It made me smile–all I could think of was Woodstock, Snoopy’s little friend.
The detail on the exterior of the buildings was exquisite, however it was nothing compared to the tombs of the Dalai Lamas inside the Potala. Those looked like wedding cakes–5 to 7 tiers high, covered with carvings and encrusted with jewels and precious stones.
We arrived in Lhasa on 5/14, which was the start of a 15 day “festival” celebrating Buddha’s birthday. For Tibetans, a festival consisted of either walking around a sacred site, or prostrating themselves as they slowly made their way counterclockwise, praying as they went.
Leaving Lhasa, we traveled to Gyantse, where we visited the Palcho Monastery.
Here, you were allowed to take photos, as long as you paid a fee. In the distance, you can see the red fort that dominates the landscape.
Plastic bags filled with offerings are scattered throughout the monastery. Devotees leave food, money, grain, white scarves (called Kata), whatever they have.
This monastery was built in the 1400’s; its interior looks very much like the interiors of the other monasteries, small chapels, very dark and smoky. I used a flash and the highest ISO possible to get these photos.
The founder of the “red hats”. Red hat monks are allowed to marry. “Yellow hats” are not. The Dalai Lama is a “yellow hat”.I asked why this statue’s face was covered. Our guide explained only those that complete a complex list of devotional activities are allowed to view his face.I have no idea which color hat these monks belong to–it looks like they hedged their bets with yellow, red and black. Plus, their hats come with bangs and braids.
The other special feature of the Palcho monastery is the Kumbum Podang. (Don’t you love the name?) A Kumbum is a stupa that is also a three-dimensional mandala. The first five floors of this structure are square and the remaining four are circular.
Unfortunately, this building was also being repaired so we were unable to go inside, but according to Wikipedia, it has 76 chapels and shrines and is also known as the Ten Thousand Buddha Pagodas. Why? Because it contains ten thousand images and murals of Buddhas.
Gyantse is also notable because in 1904, the town and monastery were attacked by the British, led by Francis Younghusband. The Tibetans were armed with outdated weapons, but they had been assured by their religious leaders that their victory was preordained. In addition to their weapons, they were protected by talismans that they thought would repel bullets. They were mowed down, and the buildings were shelled.
In 1959, the Chinese attacked the complex and it was also damaged during the cultural revolution.
After one night in Gyantse, we traveled to Shigatse, Tibet’s second largest city and the location of the Tashilhunpo Monastery. This monastery has been the home of the Pachen Lama, the great scholar, and is where most of the prior Pachen Lamas are entombed.
This photo was taken in Gyantse–no interior photos were allowed in Tashilhunpo. The top photo is of the 10th Pachen Lama and the bottom is of the current (11th) as a child.
The 10th Pachen Lama was taken to China as a child to be educated. Although he initially supported the Chinese incursion into Tibet, after returning home and seeing the impact on his country, he began to speak out. This resulted in his being tortured and imprisoned in China for 16 years. After his release, he married a Han woman, had a child and returned to Tibet. He died suddenly in 1989, at the age of 51 shortly after giving a speech critical of the Chinese government. His resting place is an amazingly beautiful tomb, with gold carvings and jewels, similar to that of Dalai Lamas in the Potala.
The entrance to the tomb of the 10th Pachen Lama
There was considerable controversy over the selection of the 11th Pachen Lama. The Dalai Lama’s choice disappeared after being named and the Pachen Lama chosen by the Chinese, now in his 20’s, is still being educated in China.
Entrance to the Tashilhunpo MonasteryInside the Monastery. No photography allowed inside the buildingsLook who is doing the manual laborThe Mandala surrounded by two deer is seen on most buildingsHow can you tell which shoes belong to whom?Apparently they are able to figure it out!
Because we were in Shigatse for two days, we were able to wander through the city on our own. Marilynn, my energetic buddy, and I climbed to the Shigatse fort that overlooked the city.
Shigatse Fort overlooks the city. As with many buildings in Tibet, it is being repaired, so no entry allowed.From the fort, you can get a good view of the city. Not sure what that bike is doing on top of the building!He was as interested in us as we were in him.
For some reason, the ride back seemed far more pleasant than the ride to the two cities. Perhaps it was because we traveled back along the river or maybe it was because we knew what to expect for toilet facilities?
Impromptu bathroom stopScenery along the way back to Lhasa
After Shigatse, it was back to Lhasa for our return to our gorgeous hotel in Nepal, the Gokarna Forest Resort. Great food, margaritas, beautiful surroundings, greeted by our wonderful Nepali guide Binoy– we were SO very glad to be back in Kathmandu!
After our stay at the comfortable, but basic, Seti River Camp, it was a complete shock to our senses when we arrived at the Kasara Chitwan Resort. We were experiencing luxury overload!
The reception area
I was expecting a room, not a stand alone suite. When I opened my door, I entered this private courtyard. The photo doesn’t do it justice, but I was too focused on enjoying my surroundings to put much energy into a photo shoot.
Air conditioned bedroom on the left, bathroom with open air shower on the right, and a beautiful courtyard in between. Those are little ponds on either side of the boardwalk, complete with resident frogs.
After getting settled, we headed out to hunt for black rhinos. Success! We saw several. My favorite is this shot, because he seemed a bit bored by us gawkers.
So what the heck are YOU looking at?
Our mode of transportation during our “safari” was a platform mounted on the elephant’s back. It was not the most comfortable ride, for us, or probably for the elephant either, but it was a fun experience.
We didn’t see any tigers, but the group before us caught sight of one. After hearing about the elephant’s reaction, I was just as glad that we hadn’t. There was a whole lot of stomping, bouncing and trumpeting going on!
For me, the best part of our visit was when we were able to interact with the elephants in the water.
The rest of the group had heard all about my nephew Jack, and how much he LOVES elephants, so Jim was gracious enough to take stills with my camera, while Binoy, our wonderful guide, shot video with my iPhone.
First trick was getting onWait, I thought I was going to be washing–not getting washed!Now I have to get downPeter, Marilyn and I giving our buddy a nice massage, using smooth stones.
These are such beautiful, intelligent and gentle creatures. What a privilege to send time with them.
Check out the toenails on her. Fun fact–elephants sweat through their toenails.
Mike, can I keep her?
While at Kasara, I kept thinking about these lines from the song “Camelot”. “The rain will never fall till after sundown; By 8 the morning clouds must disappear”, because that’s exactly how it worked during our two days there. In fact, we were extremely lucky during our entire trip. We couldn’t have asked for better weather–slightly overcast when we were trekking, which is much more comfortable than walking under a hot sun.
The resort has a lovely pool, so I was very glad I’d packed my bathing suit. Again, no photos. Sometimes you have to put the camera down and just soak in your surroundings (literally).
It also has a great second story bar overlooking the pool. I decided to skip the ox cart ride through the village, and partake in a margarita instead. That’s what my sisters, hermaña preferida, and cousins would have wanted me to do, and I couldn’t let them down.
Time to fly back to Kathmandu, and another lovely hotel, The Gokarna Forest Resort.
During our Nepal trip, we added three travelers, Ann from Indianapolis, was born in Indonesia. She and her Turkish husband met in veterinary school. Karl is a retired navy chaplain who served in Iraq. He and Eugenia were born in Hong Kong, but have lived in San Diego when they are not traveling the world. Their fluency in Chinese was much appreciated by all of us when we got to Tibet.
Standing, left to right: Marilynn, Marie, Ann, Eugenia, Karl, Peter, Dick. Me, practicing my squat, an essential skill for the airport rest rooms. Jim is missing because he is the photographer.
Here are Marie and Dick, enjoying their first class seats.
Jim, Peter and Marie will be returning to the USA after our last night together at the Gokarna, while the remaining six of us head off to Tibet. The farewell dinner is an OAT tradition when the main trip ends, and what a farewell dinner it was!
Ann, me, Marilyn, Marie and Eugenia
Yes, we needed help getting dressed, and no, we didn’t get to keep the saris.
Some of the men played dress up too.
Karl, Binoy, Jim
It was the perfect ending for three fantastic weeks together. Little did we know, but the remaining six of us were going to have a very different experience in Tibet.
What a fun city! Unlike Kathmandu, you can actually walk alone along the streets of Pokhara without fear of never finding your way back to your hotel.
What to do during our three nights there?
Of course there were temples to visit. This poor rooster seemed to know his minutes were numbered. Yes, Hindus still do animal sacrifices. But maybe he’ll get lucky and be reincarnated as a cow.
When this guy saw my camera, he insisted that I photograph him and the rooster.
The next temple could only be reached by boat.
What made this visit special were the sweet boys collecting money for the Red Cross.
“50 rupees, madam?”
“Okay”, and as I’m reaching for my money I hear, “100 rupees, madam?”
“But you said 50”
“Okay madam, 50”.
He had such a sweet smile, I gave him 1,000 rupees, the equivalent of $10. THAT guaranteed me a photo shoot with the entire group, who then insisted upon taking MY picture. My sweet negotiator is the one in the middle.
The one in the middle was my salesman
Next up, a visit to the Parakhawking Project. Please do a YouTube search to learn more about the vulture and hawk rescue project.
Believe it or not, this beautiful creature is a vulture, who, if you decide to leap off a mountain, will fly with you, locating the updrafts, thereby guaranteeing you’ll have a spectacular flight..
Unfortunately, he was molting, so he has been grounded for the next few months. What a disappointment– I was SO ready to sign up! So since parasailing was not an option, what else could I do with my free afternoon? Oh so many options…how to choose?
Who could resist this menu of services? Certainly not I!
As tempting as it was to come home with dreadlocks, I decided to be a little less adventurous and settled for a manicure. It WAS an interesting experience. I’d never had my cuticles pushed back with a coin before. And the choice of polish was greatly simplified when there are only three colors, all with sparkles.
It sorta made me wonder what my hair would have looked like if I’d chosen a dye job.
The best part was my manicurist dried my nails by waving a magazine back and forth over my fingers. Again, I thought of my hair…and what might have been.
After a round of shopping, it was clearly time for music. Initially, we thought the Bollywood Dance Club had potential, until we gave their sign a more thorough inspection. Let’s put it this way. Although we didn’t go inside to verify, we suspected the club might have fit right in with New York’s pre-Guliani Times Square or Boston’s combat zone.
Instead, we opted for Emon’s Rooftop Cafe. We ended up being the sole (but enthusiastic) customers here.
Sitting on the balcony overlooking the street, sucking down a local beer, we enjoyed a rendition of “I want to hold your hand”, Nepalese style. It doesn’t get much better than that!
Destination NOW 