Our main Indonesian trip started in the most congested city (Jakarta) then became less and less crowded, as we progressed to Bali. We were all happy to learn that the Eastern area of Bali is far less developed than Ubud. That’s where we spent the last four days of the main trip, before 8 of us headed to Komodo Island for the post trip. The remaining 8, including Micki and Jeanne, headed either for home or for independent travel.
Initially, I thought I’d do one post for Candidasa and Sanur, but that was before I got there and discovered how amazing both places were. They EACH deserve their own post!
THIS was the first time we didn’t have to fly to our new location. Traveling by bus allowed us to enjoy the view of the countryside.
Taken from my window on the bus
But it wasn’t ALL palm trees and rice fields. We also encountered the occasional traffic jam.
Photo by Shoshana
So what did the group think of Candidasa? O.M.B (which means “oh my Buddha”), what a glorious hotel! Despite being right on the ocean, it has two beautiful pools, both allowing easy access to the poolside bar.
Although our hotel offered on site spa services, we chose to ease on down the road to the Malini Day Spa, where we enjoyed a foot massage and a pedicure lasting NINETY MINUTES, for less than $20. ( I checked my credit card on line, because I didn’t believe the exchange rate app could have possibly been accurate! ). Of course, we all gave a hefty tip in Indonesian currency.
Notice the equipment being used to dry my toes.
As with all OAT trips, we visited local craftsmen, like these blacksmiths who demonstrated the traditional way to create a Kris (dagger)
Followed by a stop at a women’s weaving cooperative, where our group made several purchases of the beautiful fabric.
Our final stop was at a salat farm, where we toured the property. All of us, except Cheryl, were careful to avoid the sharp barbs of the salat fruit. Her arm became Exhibit 1 of the damage those barbs could inflict.
The hard outer shell is removed, to reveal the light edible part. The inner seed is discarded. Can you see those sharp barbs on the tree?
I absolutely LOVED our visit to the water palace.
Micki, Jeanne, me, Laurie
It was impossible to take a bad photo of this glorious palace.
The hotel offered early morning yoga, which Jeanne, Micki and I decided to take advantage of. We were surprised by this photo Shoshana took; she was equally surprised to see that she could identify participants in her “random” photo.
Did Elizabeth Gilbert’s book “Eat, Pray, Love” ruin Bali? The jury is still out. She definitely increased the number of tourist visits, especially around Ubud, which depending on your point of view, could be good or bad. The city sprawl appears endless; the main streets are jam packed with shops. Uneven doesn’t begin to describe the “sidewalks” and don’t get me started on the traffic! Crossing the street deserves a “profile in courage” award. To me, it is actually scarier than Hanoi.
I read Gilbert’s book about 20 years ago, when, while on a business trip, I was as stuck at Providence airport because of bad weather.
Because I knew this adventure would include several days in Bali, I packed the book to reread the Indonesia section. This time, my focus was different from my first reading. I was FAR more interested in the cultural and historical information than her description of her romance with the man who became her second husband. What a difference 20 years makes!
The Broadway play, South Pacific, was my only other source of info about Bali. I was too young to see the play, and I don’t think I ever saw the movie, (which was filmed in Hawaii, NOT even in Bali) but I remember the songs: “ I’m gonna wash that man right out of my hair” and “Bali Hai”. We are definitely not experiencing Bali HIGH, because on the flight to Bali, we were informed that if we trafficked in drugs they would KILL us by invoking the death penalty. That announcement came right after we were exhorted to fasten our seatbelts, and it was stated in exactly the same matter-of-fact way.
So what did we do during our three days in Ubud? EVERYTHING worth doing.
We visited the dance school that the OAT Foundation supports, where the adorable children performed for us. After their excellent show, none of us had any desire to watch a “professional” performance.
After they finished, we were invited to join the children, so we could experience how hard it is to do the traditional dance correctly. I’ll be honest. It was definitely a humbling experience!
We did far better doing “Happy Yoga” with the seniors, where we all learned the five different ways to laugh, and which part of the body each particular laugh strengthens.
We also learned how to make little containers from palm leaves for the daily offerings to the Hindu gods.
One of three shapesJeanne and Ganesh
OAT has three unique features: dinner with a local family (home visit), “A Day in the Life” (usually a local village, farm or winery) and “controversial topics”. For THIS trip, our controversial topic was supposed to be the caste system. We met a man from the lowest of the four Indonesian castes ( a farmer) who married a woman of the highest caste (Brahmin, comprised of priests and scholars) and were able to learn about their secret courtship and elopement. Their marriage caused the woman to be estranged from her family for years. To this day there are rigid rules the wife’s parents have to follow, such as they can’t visit their grandchildren until after sunset.
The wedding album
But that was not the only “ controversial” topic! It seems the Balinese believe all sexual activity ceases after age 60, which is why THIS room has been designated as a “sex free zone” , used by only those over the age of 60. EVERYONE in our group has long passed that particular milestone, and that pronouncement was met with bursts of laughter. Maybe we were practicing what we learned during our “happy yoga” session, maybe it was because of this alcoholic beverage we shared? Who can say for sure?
If you’re under 60, keep out! Home brewed Arak
Remember how I started this post with the NEGATIVE aspects of tourism? The Buddhist in me feels compelled to offer this yang to offset that ying.
Tourist money allowed this beautiful vista to be preserved.
For a fee, you can zip line or swing across the rice paddies.
We didn’t have time for either, so had to content ourselves with the free photo ops,
because we had more wondrous things to view, like the volcano’s crater, and more photo ops to experience.
Jeanne #2I have no fear of heights
Luckily the lake wasn’t too choppy, so we were able to visit the tiny ancient village located a half an hour away by boat.
Jeanne#1, Shoshana, Laurie
The ancestors of the current 1,000 residents have lived in this isolated village for about 1,000 years. They like being cut off from the rest of the world.
Average life expectancy is approximately 67 years, but the chief told us the oldest villager made it to 120(?!)
What makes the better carrier? Backpack or head?The volcano’s craterShoshana took this photo of these cute village boys.
Our final stop, before heading back across the lake was to the cemetery, where we read the rules before entering.
I don’t know whether the locals talked dirty or were impolite, but they sure ignored the rule against littering! There was trash all over the ground.
One rule they keep is not posted. THAT rule prohibits more than 11 people at a time from being “buried” in the cemetery. When the 12th person dies, then whoever has been in the cemetery the longest is removed and their skull (if decomposition occurred ) is placed on the altar. Until the skull can be easily detached, the body is dumped aside till ready.
On the way back to the hotel, we stopped to crash a wedding.
Widi travels with a supply of sarongs, just in case he encounters a local opportunity like this. (Is he an amazing trip leader, or what?)
The traffic we encountered on the way back to the hotel forced us to be flexible. Rather than returning before 3 PM, we arrived around 5 PM. Thanks to Steve Jobs, I am never without a book, camera, and access to email and texts, so delays are never a problem for me.
We wanted to have an early dinner anyway, so we left for the fabulous Herb Library, (a restaurant recommended by Laurie’s nephew), shortly after our return.
Yes, chicken and beef options are on the menu
Finally, leaving Ubud, on our way to Candidasa, we stopped to visit a mask maker’s studio, where we watched the masks come to life via dance.
Photo by ShoshanaMarian, Nancy & DemonSeveral generations of mask makers.
One of the many reasons that I enjoy traveling with OAT is they know how long we should allocate to a particular area, and they know how to appropriately fill that time.
Jakarta is a very large, crowded city, with lots of traffic. During our stay, thanks to OAT, we got a real sense of the history and culture of the area.
Although most of the OAT hotels include breakfast, we were pleasantly surprised to learn that Hotel Santika also offers a free buffet every evening, which was most welcome when we arrived from Borneo, tired and hungry.
Our first full day began with a visit to Santi, who created an organic food business which operates out of her home.
Santi taught us to make delicious vegetarian spring rolls, which we devoured.
Her home was a mix of modern and ancient. The beautiful, hand carved wooden screen in the central courtyard is hundreds of years old.
Santi had an export business until US tariffs made it impossible to continue operating, so we can no longer buy her organic products from the Internet.
While Santi readied the room for our lunch, Era, our local guide, took us for a walk through the park across the street, where rainbow eucalyptus trees are growing. I MIGHT appear in an Indonesian TikTok video, because when I joined the local women dancing in the park, several of them filmed us.
Can you see how they got their name?
Although our itinerary had described the afternoon as “free time”, Widi gave us a choice. We could return to the hotel, or we could join him and Era for a visit to the Jakarta museum, transported by our bus. Because it was not part of the tour, we would have to buy our own ticket for 150,000 rupiahs ( or about $8.50). I’m bringing back Indonesian money for sweet Adam (my friend Levia’s son), so I jumped at the chance to get a bill smaller than 100,000 rupiahs.
GaneshMap showing the different ethnic groups comprising Indonesia
Is it just me, or does this ancient batik look like Picasso’s inspiration for his paintings?
On dat two, we visited the Muslim area of Jakarta. I wish more Americans would travel outside of North America. If they did, they would see how beautiful and welcoming the children are and perhaps be less inclined to support wars against other nations.
All of the children wanted to high five us!
We were given the opportunity to ask questions during our meeting with the female village chief and a male teacher, which deepen our understanding of the Indonesian Muslims’ beliefs and way of life. When we left our meeting, we joined in a musical celebration with the villagers.
Sadly, my hands were occupied with my tambourine, so I was unable to video our stirring rendition of “ you are my sunshine”, but we ALL sang it with gusto in ENGLISH! Unfortunately, none of the Americans could join in for the Indonesian version of the song.
Our tuk tuk ride from the Muslim neighborhood to the historic square was, shall we say, “thrilling”.
Laurie and I, the two big American women, stuffed into this little tuk tuk.
The square wasn’t all that interesting till I spotted this beautiful Indonesian girl dressing up as a Dutch woman. Widi explained that Indonesians had to find creative ways to earn money, so although I would never pose with Grover or Spider-Man in Times Square, I was highly motivated to support the local economy.
Next stop was a visit to Era’s friend, a puppet maker, who explained about his craft and entertained us with a brief show about the legend of Shinto, Rama and the monkey king ( Hamman?). It reminded me of US movies, but instead of car chases, there was a lot of fighting and punching. Our show lasted about 10 minutes, instead of the NINE HOURS that the local version lasts !
After lunch we were given the choice of how to spend our “free” afternoon: return to the hotel, visit the mosque, then visit Chinatown. I chose to visit the mosque, then return to the hotel to take advantage of the pool.
Widi and Era accompanied us to the mosque, which was great, because we traveled by public transportation (the train) and our bus picked us up after the visit. Indonesians are so polite, friendly and helpful, that I probably could have gotten there on my own (relying on the kindness of strangers), but I’m so very glad I didn’t have to.
The mosque was built across the street from the cathedral, to symbolize the tolerance and acceptance of Indonesians toward those who think differently. If only we could imitate them, the world would be a better place— and happier— place.
As usual, the locals wanted to have their photo taken with us.
It was definitely not the most beautiful mosque I’ve ever visited, but I’m glad I went.
Jeff and Ruth. Jeff’s shorts were deemed too “ short” , so he was given this Jedi robe.
The pollution in Jakarta is severe. I took this photo shortly before 6 PM while waiting for the elevator, from the 15th floor.
It seems every city must have its phallic symbol, and Jakarta is no exception, but they added a twist. Some see a flame, others see the shape of a woman. Era, our guide said the latter is appropriate for Soekarno, Indonesia’s first president and a notorious womanizer. Widi, our guide, pointed out Soekarno’s persuasive powers not only enabled him to unite all the various islands to form the nation of Indonesia, but also enabled him to convince NINE women to marry him!
The evening ended just like the previous one, on the 22nd floor in the skybar.
With Jeanne and Laurie.
We are at the airport now, awaiting our flight to Yogyakarta, where we will spend the next four nights. I hope you’ll come along.
Forgive any typos. We are boarding now so I’m pressing publish without proofreading.
We all have heard about the work of Jane Goodall and Dian Fossey, but how many of us know that Louis Leakey had a THIRD woman researching the big apes? I sure didn’t. Jane Goodall focused on chimpanzees, while Dian Fossey researched gorillas. Biruté Galdikas was the third member of Leakey’s “Trimates”, studying the orangutans in Borneo.
Maybe we don’t know about her because her name is more difficult to spell, pronounce and remember? Anyway, OAT listed her book “Reflections of Eden” as a suggested reading. Because it was published in 1995, my local library didn’t have a copy, so I ordered it from Thrift Books for $12.49. (If you are interested in seeing what Thrift Books provides, just click on the link— the underlined words).
It is a wonderful book! If you are interested in what on site researchers go through, she tells all: the fevers, the mud, the rashes, the disappointments and triumphs, in an engaging and entertaining way.
Although Eros, our local guide, explained a lot about orangutan behavior, I was glad to have read about it earlier in Biruté’s well written book.
We started the pretrip to Borneo, leaving the hotel at 4:15 AM for our 6 AM flight to Pangkalan Bun. From there, we drove to the river, then boarded a Klotok ( which is a traditional Indonesian riverboat) that took us to our very rustic ecolodge.
Laurie boarding our klotokThe floor boards bounce when you step on themAlthough my bed has a mosquito net, I have yet to see a mosquito
Widi is a master at managing expectations. He prepared us for flight delays ( which didn’t happen) then told us our ecolodge is simultaneously the best and the worst lodging in the area, simply because it is the ONLY lodging in the area! We spent two nights there, but all our meals were served on the river boat.
Our first orangutan encounter was at Tanjung Puting National Park. When we arrived at this popular spot, we learned that we would have to climb through FIVE other riverboats to get to the park.
My sister Sue will recall our jumping from fishing boat to fishing boat in our younger days. Let me tell ya, it was a whole lot easier when I was 12 years old! Still, we all did great. I was completely impressed by 90 year old Arthur, who navigated the boats like a champ.
Bonnie, demonstrating how it’s done.
Next, we walked a little less than a mile to the feeding station, over a well maintained, flat path through the jungle. The only hazard were the many tree roots that could trip you up if you weren’t paying attention. I had my eyes on the road ahead and for once, made it back and forth without falling.
Was it worth getting up at 3AM? Hell yeah.
This lovely lady high in a nearby tree watched us watching the other orangutans on the feeding platform.
And what a show they put on! Here are a couple of them behaving like boys of all species.
It reminded me of my Rwanda trip where we watched as twin brother gorillas wrestled on the ground. However, in Rwanda, we were able to get MUCH closer to the primates. BUT, we had to hike two hours through the jungle to get there, and it was NOT on a well maintained trail. Plus we were only able to visit ONCE for an hour, whereas in Borneo, we made THREE visits to feeding stations on three different days.
Our second visit was to the preserve that Biruté and her husband established in the early ‘70s. It was named in honor of her mentor, Louis Leakey.
Once again, we had to climb through multiple boats to get to land. THIS time we walked on a “boardwalk” part of the way. Good thing we didn’t get too complacent. It was even more hazardous than the tree roots because some of the boards were loose, others had rotted areas, with holes and huge gaps between them. This was the BEST stretch. It got progressively worse.
Once we arrived at the feeding station, we were able to watch our first adult male (Nova) as he leisurely devoured bananas.
It just so happened that our final orangutan visit, to Pondok Tangui, was the very best of the trip. On the way to the feeding station, I was glad I’d brought my binoculars with me, because to be able to watch orangutans swinging from the treetops was pretty spectacular. No photos, only the visuals imprinted on my brain.
When we arrived at the feeding station, we realized that Atlas, the alpha male, decided to mingle with the peons (us) before consuming his brunch. He was so near, I was able to get this close up. Although initially I thought it would be challenging to tell the orangutans apart, after viewing photos of Nova and Atlas, I realized there are significant differences between these alpha males. Can YOU tell who’s who?
We were able to get pretty close to the big guy before he ambled over to the feeding platform.
Although Atlas dominated the feeding platform, keeping other males away, he was willing to share bananas with these monkeys.
We met with one of the rangers who explained that before he became the alpha male, Atlas hung out with these Macaque monkeys in the jungle, so they all became friends.
I have enough videos and photos of these fascinating primates to make your eyes roll back into your head, so I’ll stop with this photo of a mother and child, sharing a tender moment in a nearby tree. Using my binoculars I was able to watch them kissing, but wasn’t fast enough to capture it with my iPhone, so this will have to do.
Tomorrow we return to Jakarta to meet 8 more travelers that will be joining us on the main trip.
Remember that line of bull that they give new mothers about how you forget the pain of giving birth once you hold your baby in your arms? Yeah. That didn’t happen. I still can vividly remember that pain. But it sure works for travel. Once I arrive at my destination, I forget all about the long plane rides, the jet lag, and any difficulties I’ve encountered along the way. I’m just so thrilled to reach my destination!
Okay , so business class on Singapore Airlines was definitely NOT a hardship, but it STILL took nineteen LONG hours. After that I had to change planes for a two hour flight from Singapore to Jakarta on Scoot Airlines. When I booked the flight, I was concerned about having only 1 1/2 hours to change planes, but the airport was super efficient, so I even had time to brush my teeth before I boarded.
As usual, I initially purchased airfare from OAT, knowing that as long as I notified them at least 90 days before departure, I could cancel the airfare portion and get a full refund. The routing they offered had me departing on Saturday, arriving on Monday and involved multiple plane changes, so I decided to see if I could do better. Fortunately, my travel buddy, Jeanne, has a nephew who works in Singapore. He suggested I try Singapore Airlines, which I did. I got affordable business class, and was able to shave hours off my travel time, leaving a day later (Sunday) and arriving Monday night.
Normally, for a trip like this, I would do only carry-on. Unlike trips involving more than one climate, this time I only need to pack hot weather clothes, which are lightweight and much smaller than winter clothes. However, the Friends of Overseas Adventure Facebook group recommended bringing along a hiking stick, and mentioned that it might not be allowed as a carry-on. (It is left to the discretion of the TSA agent whether or not to confiscate the hiking stick). I decided not to take the chance.
Well, since I’m checking luggage anyway, I’m packing significantly more than I ordinarily would. For example, I’m bringing along a travel hairdryer, just in case some hotels have those horrible ones that are attached to the wall.
The allowance for checked luggage with Singapore Airlines is quite generous—88 pounds for checked. For carry-on I’m allowed two bags weighing 15 pounds each. Even with overpacking, I’m coming in WAY below ( 32 pounds checked and 12 for my ONE carry on). We shall see if I forgot something essential, although according to my check list, I’ve packed everything and then some.
So, how was business class with Singapore Air? It was worth every penny! As my friend Beth one told me, “ if you don’t fly business class, your kid will.” So I’m happily spending my son’s inheritance, with his complete support and encouragement.
The service on Singapore Airlines was excellent, the food was great, and the seats were super comfortable. The best part—like United’s Polaris flights, every seat had aisle access, so no need to climb over a fellow passenger to get to the bathroom.
The “lay flat” seats were not as easy to operate as United’s. You have to get up, pull the seat back forward and do other things to get your bed made. A flight attendant made up my bed, so I have no idea what “other things” she did! I chose a window seat on the left, which had me sleeping with my head facing the aisle, and my feet by the window, on an angle.
I had to move the orange bags and water bottle to make room for my feet. Fortunately, there was plenty of storage space for my “stuff”.
Although Singapore Airlines provides noise canceling headsets, they are NOT as effective as my Bose, so I’m definitely using my own on the return flight.
I was glad that I packed an adapter, because without it, I would have been unable to charge my electronics. The plugs required a European style C adapter.
Everything I read told me to avoid alcohol because doing so would help me fall asleep. Although I took an Ambien, and didn’t partake in the departure champagne, I wasn’t able to fall asleep so I figured what the hell, I’m having wine with dinner.
Before I left home, I had done an E-visa and gotten my arrival card on line, so I was able to go directly to passport control, but being me, I went the wrong way. ( my sister Sue will be thinking , “ at least she consistent” when she reads this ) I had walked a considerable distance before an airport worker stopped me and pointed in the opposite direction. Somehow she could tell I am not Indonesian and I needed to go through immigration.
The Jakarta airport is HUGE! Although because I purchased my own airfare, technically my trip leader didn’t have to meet me at the airport. Therefore, I was surprised and pleased to get this WhatsApp message from Widi when I arrived.
Okay, so I’ll admit to being a bit spacey even when I’m NOT jet lagged, but try as I might, I couldn’t find him —Not even with that visual aid. Turns out, HE was in terminal 2 and I was in terminal 3. The airline had changed terminals but never updated the information.
Eventually we found each other, got on the shuttle and made our way to the gorgeous Sheraton.
Tonight we will have a group dinner, where I will meet the 3 couples who will be traveling to Borneo with Laurie and me tomorrow.
Today is going to be a pool day, where I will ( I hope) completely shake off any remnants of jet lag.
Although Mike and I visited Bolzano in 2018, I had absolutely no memory of anything except Otzi, the Iceman. And because I wasn’t traveling solo back then, I didn’t blog as often, — Mike tended to distract me —so I couldn’t even consult my “on-line” trip journal.
So, I’ll just have to wait till I get back home to see whether the photos on my computer jog my memory. Oh, a mind is a terrible thing to lose.
This time, the trip to Bolzano included a morning stop in the lovely village of Monza where the Carabinieri were having some sort of a convention.
The main attraction was supposed to be (what else?) the Monza Cathedral, which houses the iron crown that was used for Charlemagne’s coronation. The Italian policemen were an unexpected bonus.
This is a replica. The real deal is locked up below.
So what makes this crown so special? Well, in 324 AD, St Helena, mother of Charlemagne, traveled to the Holy Land. The enterprising locals quickly recognized an opportunity to make a few shekels, so they told this gullible woman that they found a nail that was used to crucify Jesus (in their grandpa’s attic, no doubt). Oh, and by the way, if she wanted—and had enough money—she could also purchase a piece of the cross on which Jesus hung. (She did. It is a relic someplace else—I forget where).
The centuries old nail was melted down and made a part of the interior of the crown. No photos of the relic were allowed, but that’s okay, because the crown made it into the cathedral’s brochure.
Must have been a really big nail to circle the interior of the crown. Something tells me it will never be carbon dated.
Theolinda’s chapel was totally covered with visually impressive frescoes, but photos were only allowed to be taken at a distance, outside the chapel.
Who was Theolinda, you ask? Well the frescoes tell the story of her life. She was a Bavarian princess, who outlived her two Lombard husbands ( no small feat, back then). There is more to her story than that, but I’ve forgotten the details. Supposedly, she is buried in that chapel.
It wouldn’t be a Catholic house of worship without an image of a gruesome death, and this cathedral was no exception: John the Baptist’s severed head was prominently displayed.
We had time between our cathedral tour and lunch, to explore Monza. Here are a few of our sights.
Symbolic of Theolinda and her peoplePhoto by Gail
It’s a good thing that the morning was so delightful, because we spent the remainder of the day stuck in traffic, arriving at our hotel around 9PM.
We were lucky that our bus was super comfortable, we all had our entertainment centers (otherwise known as cellphones) and all bus seats had charging ports. Plus, we pulled into a comfort station to load up on snacks when it became apparent that we needed to cancel our dinner reservation. Fortunately, everyone rolled with it, without complaining.
As usual, we started our day with a local guide who pointed out what makes Bolzano special. Our tour ended at the archaeological museum, where we could visit Otzi. Although the iceman was fascinating, Susan and I had already seen him, so we chose to roam the streets of Bolzano instead.
Though we only two nights in Bolzano, we packed a lot into our brief visit, including a hike on the Freud Promenade. To get there, we had to take a train that strongly resembled NYC mass transit during rush hour, which was definitely not a highlight. Like everything else in life, when you travel ya gotta take the good with the bad.
Susan, me, Dan, Jodie & Luca
But the NEXT part of our journey more than made up for the crowded train ride. This fabulous gondola provided 360 degree views of the beautiful countryside.
The walk was lovely, the weather was perfect, and by the time we finished, we had worked up quite an appetite.
Once again, Luca chose a fantastic restaurant, where we were served our choice of three courses. I had delicious barbecued ribs, and ended up so full, I began to wonder whether I’m going to exceed my usual five trip pounds gain!
Luca, Gail, Kay, me, Susan, Jodie, DanThis was just the appetizer!
Our next stop will be in San Candido. I sure hope the weather report continues to be wrong, because it is predicting rain for all three days that we are there.
What?! You never heard of Biella? Before this trip, neither had I. That’s one of the many reasons I choose to travel with OAT. Their itineraries include places I didn’t know I wanted to visit until I got there.
Our hotel, the Agora Palace, is across the street from a beautiful park. Unlike the USA, Biella has public sources of pure mountain water, like this one, from which you can fill your water bottle.
Also near our hotel is a small mall with a grocery store and an inexpensive clothing shop. Because the weather has been unseasonably warm, and we were ALL expecting cold temperatures, most of us went shopping for lightweight clothes. For 30 Euros, I got a tee shirt, shorts and a long skirt. I wasn’t crazy about the slit in the long skirt, but that’s all Piazza Italia had in stock. (That’s the name of the store).
Before we arrived, Luca explained Biella is a quiet town, without much going on, so we were a little surprised when we encountered this:
Turns out, an “old car” race with over 100 cars was taking place that night. We were a little puzzled by the cars departing one at a time, but we learned it was a TIMED race, and unlike most “races” , the speed was not the point. It was actually an opportunity to show off your old car. Supposedly, the race went on all night!
Babes, band & cars — in a “sleepy” town??
As I mentioned in an earlier post, we were unable to visit the ice cave in Chamonix, so Luca negotiated with the OAT office to replace THAT activity with vermouth tasting at a historic bar.
We don’t THINK we drank snake oil My favorite was chocolate filled with vermouth
We were all quite delighted with the change in activities!
Our second day in Biella started with a guided tour of the city’s highlights, namely churches, including this baptistry.
We’ve all seen churches, and the remainder looked like every other church I’ve visited, so I took no photos.
We then hopped onto a bus, which whisked us up to the old section of Biella, where we toured La Palazzo La Marmora. Here’s another reason I love OAT. The palace is normally closed on Sunday, but it was opened just for us.
Our guide, the marquis, was a member of the illustrious family, whose tree adorned the dining room wall.
To say the artwork and antiques were interesting would be an understatement.
The matriarch who commissioned the following family portrait gave birth to 16 children. The girls all moved away after marriage, so the artist had to visit the homes of the daughters to create “sketches” that he later incorporated into the portrait. Of course, the gathering of all surviving children portrayed in the painting never occurred. (Was this the forerunner of Photoshop or AI?)
I thought I could figure out who was who by matching the clothing, but apparently the artist preferred different outfits.
The 4 sons on the upper right were all generals in the Crimean war. So what do you do when a cannonball almost kills you? Why, if you are a member of nobility, you bring it home, melt it down and recycle it into a chair.
One final example of the artwork, before we move on.
For some unknown reason, the marquis didn’t point out this mural on the dining room wall. Perhaps he didn’t want to have to explain what his ancestors were thinking about while they were munching on their Cheerios?
After the tour, most of the group chose to take an optional cooking class, but Susan and I decided to skip it. Instead, we had lunch in upper Biella at the “Hasta La Polenta” restaurant. How could we resist a restaurant sporting a plaque that said ( in Italian) “Ernest Hemingway never was here”?
I absolutely LOVE the Italian sense of humor. Take a look at the English translations on their menu.
Of course, after our entree, we HAD to have dessert. Here’s Susan, showing off her selection.
After our wonderfully filling lunch, Susan and I worked off some of our dessert by walking back to the hotel.
By then it was time to get ready for a “home hosted” dinner with Marcelo and Claudia in their historical home, built in the 1800’s.
Our group of 14 split up to have dinner with 3 different families.
For final day we visited a cheese farm, to partake in what OAT calls “A day in the life”. As the name suggests, OAT travelers are given an opportunity to experience the area’s daily life. The best part? We walked part of the way there — and the weather was perfect!
Kay, Gail, me. Susan
We all got a chance to “make” cheese, while we learned more about Elisa, our host. Although she has a degree in economics, Elisa decided she preferred to take over her grandparents’ cheese making business.
Hiking to the farmThe welcoming committee Elisa and LucaMom and babyChampion cheese makerLunchOAT group at a Day in the Life, with our hosts
We ended the day with a visit to (what else) the church complex at Oropa.
This “new” church was built for a papal visit
The original church incorporated this rock into its wall, presenting the perfect backdrop for yet another group photo.
Dinner was on our own, so four of us went for pizza at Doppio Zero. It was very good, but very different.
Okay, so plan A was to spend most of the month of May on the OAT trip to Azerbaijan and Turkey, but when OAT canceled the pre-tip to Azerbaijan because of its proximity to Iran, I decided it was time to activate Plan B. Turkey ALSO shares a small part of its eastern border with Iran, and because US leadership is wildly unpredictable these days, I decided not to take a chance. It’s too bad, because I was really looking forward to travel with my buddy Janis. Maybe we will travel to Turkey in the future, once things settle down.
I was really lucky to discover OAT’s Alpine Europe trip was not only deeply discounted, but it also had single availability AND the timing was perfect. This particular departure offers neither pre nor post trips, but that suited me just fine.
Ignore those boxes on the map at the top of this post. Instead, follow the red arrows. I flew into Geneva a day before the tour starts, got picked up at the airport and driven to Chamonix, a small town at the base of Mont Blanc, about an hour away. Eventually 18 days later I will end up in Innsbruck, Austria.
There are 14 of us on this trip, 4 couples, and 6 singles. We are already a very congenial group, with 12 of us choosing to have dinner together for what was supposed to be an “on your own” night.
Luca, our trip leader, took this “selfie”
The restaurant Luca chose, The Rose du Pont, is located right by the river, which winds thru the center of Chamonix.
Earlier that day, I had hiked along the river walk and saw that I could have booked a river rafting trip,
or gone paragliding, had I planned ahead.
Only joking…walking along the river is as adventurous as I get these days.
In the afternoon, I took advantage of the pool and whirlpool. The outdoor hot tub and sauna were being cleaned today, so I wasn’t able to use them, but we have another full day here, so maybe.
I’ll end the first day of our tour with two night shots. The first is of four of the “single ladies”, with Mont Blanc clearly visible behind us.
When we traveled to Antarctica in 2011, we went via Santiago. This time, I am flying to Ushuaia through Buenos Aires.
My journey started in Newark. I was amazed at how empty Newark’s airport was. I left home slightly before 11 AM; by 11:50 I had checked my bag, been through security, changed into my Houston/Buenos Aires clothes in the Polaris lounge bathroom and was enjoying the excellent buffet.
My first flight was to Houston. Because I used miles and points to book my flight, I traveled business class for both segments. Let me tell ya, domestic business class isn’t worth it. International business class, however, DEFINITELY is!
I normally sit on the aisle, but for the Houston flight, I had a window seat. Sadly, when the flight attendant attempted to pass me my lunch tray, I managed to knock a full glass of red wine over myself and the very gracious man sitting next to me. But in my defense, the passenger in the seat in front of me had his seat all the way back, so the clearance was really tight.
As luck would have it, my friend Sharmon’s younger daughter, Sol flew from San Francisco to Buenos Aires and we both had a stop in Houston around the same time. We were on the same flight from Houston to Buenos Aires, so we hung out in the United Club. The time went by MUCH faster because we spent the two hour layover catching up.
I almost didn’t recognize Sweet Sol, because the last time I saw her, she had long blondish hair, no glasses, and wasn’t wearing a mask. She pretended not to notice I smelled like the frat house the morning after a wild party. But then again, stale wine doesn’t smell as bad as stale beer.
Because Sol holds dual citizenship, she was able to whisk thru passport control WAY ahead of me. It took over an hour for me to get thru. HELPFUL HINT: if you’re coming to Argentina, visit the bathroom BEFORE getting in the passport control line. Don’t ask how I came to that conclusion. Let’s just say I was jiggling a lot.
I’d been to Buenos Aires twice before, so I didn’t feel compelled to see Evita’s grave or the Opera House. Instead I figured I’d enjoy the beautiful hotel, and I certainly did.
Check out the rooftop pool:
The view was so spectacular, and the pool was so glorious, I used it on Friday AND Saturday.
My son Greg clued me in to the wonders of ChatGPT. So, when I was unable to find any cafes full of people having lunch outside near Alvear Art Hotel, I asked ChatGPT.
I ended up choosing a delightful cafe about a mile away, which allowed me to stroll thru some very interesting streets.
Waiting for the elevator before tonight’s information session, I met Leslie, another solo traveler. Like me, she’s a widow who is comfortable traveling alone. Her cabin will be across the hall from me.
We had a lovely cocktail “hour”. I’ll admit that our table was having so much fun, we had to be asked to leave! And yes, we closed the place down.
Probably a good thing because we have to be on the bus by 7AM tomorrow. I had hoped for a later departure because Buenos Aires is much closer to Ushuaia than Santiago. But nope. Same departure time as it was in 2011.
Who knows whether I’ll have connectivity once I board the ship, so I’m sending this off now.
Yes, indeed, I’m excited and thrilled that I have already discovered such congenial travel mates.
The first time I went to Antarctica was in January of 2011. At that time, my friends thought Mike, Greg and I had completely lost our minds. “WHY in the world would you want to go THERE?” was the most frequent comment we received from friends and family.
Although Mike was retired, Greg and I were employed, so we were limited to a 15 day journey, 10 days with the National Geographic tour and 5 days on our own traveling to and from Santiago via Lima.
THIS time I’m retired, going solo, so I am able to spend 24 days traveling beyond the Antarctic peninsula to the South Georgia and the Falkland Islands. Instead of meeting the group in Santiago, I’m traveling to Buenos Aires. As with last time, however, we are flying to Ushuaia where we will board the ship, then sail through the dreaded Drake Passage. (Yes, my doctor gave me an adequate supply of seasickness patches. They worked well last time for me and Greg, not as effective for Mike.)
Photo from 2011, taken at the end of our voyage Another view of Ushuaia
So why in the world am I going again?
Where else can you experience creatures so unafraid that they follow YOU?
Where else can you see so many different shades of blue and white?
Or learn about the different seals and penguins living in this frozen wonderland?
But won’t it be cold?
Yes, sometimes it is cold, but National Geographic’s trip cost includes matching parkas for those times. (Laura,one of my trip leaders said “there is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing choices”.)
Sometimes it’s warm enough to have a cookout on the back deck wearing just a sweater (and a smile) over your tee shirt.
The best part was traveling with National Geographic experts: Photographers, naturalists, geologists, penguin and whale experts. We would gather in the bar every evening for presentations by those experts, showing us how they spent their day.
The walls of the bar/lounge were covered with big screen TVs so no matter where you sit, you still would have a great view.
Fifteen years ago, our ship was the Explorer. This time, I’ll be sailing on the Endurance, a newer ship serving 126 passengers, with 8 cabins for us traveling solo. I’m not sure how effective the internet is at the bottom of our planet. 15 years ago, I didn’t have a smart phone or a blog so it wasn’t an issue.
I hope you’ll join me on this adventure; I’ll be posting when the spirit moves me and the internet grants me connectivity.
