Japanese Cultural Experiences in Tokyo and Hakone

When you think of Japan, what comes to mind? For me, it was all about the cherry blossoms and the Geishas. Sumo Wrestling? Drumming? Karaoke? Not so much. But I kept an open mind, and I’m so glad I did. Frequently, on OAT trips, I didn’t know I wanted to see something until I got there.

Take, for instance, sumo wrestlers. These guys put on quite a show for us. I hadn’t expected them to be so funny! While demonstrating the forbidden moves—poking their opponent’s eyes—a fake eyeball popped out and rolled on the floor.

It wasn’t just laughs, though. We also learned quite a bit about the sport. Some of the sumo wrestlers are recruited from the ranks of “troubled” boys, usually around the time they turn 15, providing a constructive use of all that testosterone.

Their careers last about 20 years, which means they retire from wrestling in their mid to late 30’s, similar to the career span of professional athletes in the USA.

Renee and I (because of our insurance backgrounds) immediately had questions about the impact of all that extra weight on life expectancy. We learned that sumo wrestlers, on average, live 10 years less than most Japanese. As one would expect, diabetes, joint problems, head injuries and other medical issues are responsible for decreased longevity.

Like our time with the wrestlers, we were offered a “hands on” experience at a subsequent cultural event —drumming. And boy, did we get into it! We were like a bunch of pre-teen boys, wildly pounding away.

It was raining off and on during our second day in Hakone, but we didn’t mind. Our day was filled with indoor cultural experiences, starting with a boat ride across the lake to visit a woodworking master.

I’m not normally a shopper, but this master craftsman’s work was so exquisite and so unusual, I had to buy a couple of his smaller pieces. Partly because of the prices and partly because traveling with carry on, my purchasing power was severely limited.

Next up was shabu shabu for lunch ( Japan’s version of fondue),

followed by a delightful encounter with these two lovely geishas, who danced and played a traditional instrument to demonstrate how they entertain clients.

During the question and answer period, they dispelled many misconceptions about geishas.

Unlike the book and movie “Memoirs of a Geisha” would have you believe, geishas are not prostitutes, nor are young girls sold to geisha houses. Although they admitted those things might have happened many years ago, the practice was not widespread even back then.

I never would have guessed there is a geisha union that clients contact when they want to book a geisha for an event. Geisha musicians are the highest paid, and if a client wants them to paint their faces white, and don wigs to create that traditional hairdo, it costs extra. An event normally lasts about two hours, with geishas sometimes attending two parties per night.

Curious about that big padded thingie on their back? I sure was. Well, they don’t carry a purse, so they need SOME PLACE to store their cell phone, right? Think of it as a Geisha backpack. I couldn’t believe all the stuff they pulled out to show us!

Because Hakone is noted for its hot springs, many hotels have onsens on site, and our hotel was no exception.

Men and women have separate areas, because everyone is naked in the onsen. During our stay, Kris , Janis and I experienced different pools, both inside and out, during our multiple visits. Since this is not an X-rated blog, there are no photos of the three of us frolicking in the onsen. Plus it’s against the rules. . .

Did I mention Japanese are very good at following rules? They are much better than Americans, which is probably why the laminated card in our rooms included English translations.

I’m going to end this post with our final Hakone activity—karaoke. My only prior experience with karaoke was at a bar, where individuals performed solo. The Japanese do it differently. It’s a group sing-along in a tiny room. Yep, the room isn’t much bigger than what you see in the photo below.

What a bonding experience! I’ll admit, it helps if you downed some sake (or wine) beforehand, which we all did, to celebrate Kathleen‘s birthday.

Wondering about that red basket? It held the microphones.

Hakone, Part 1

Every time I think this trip couldn’t possibly get better, it does.

On our bus ride to Hakone, we were treated to multiple views of the elusive Mt Fuji. We watched as it progressed from crystal clear to cloudy.

10:30 AM at the rest stop
The clouds started rolling in around 3 PM.
3:30 PM. Our driver took us to this special look out that gave us a phenomenal view of the mountain.

Although it is wasn’t on the itinerary, I had told Mori I really wanted to experience the Open Air Museum in Hakone and he made it happen. Turns out 12 out of the 14 of us wanted to visit. We made the most of our hour at the museum. Here are a few of my favorites.

It may not look like much from the outside but wait till you step inside.

But there was so much more to see, like this piece which was inspired by the myth of Narcissus.

The sculpture was trying to view her reflection in the water, but her tears were blurring her image.
Can you believe how perfectly balanced that sculpture is? And check out the gorgeous setting.

We lucked out with the weather because our second day in Hakone was rainy.

Highlights: Tokyo at Night

Let’s get real here. After action packed days, how much night life do you think this jet lagged group experienced? If you’re looking for bar hopping photos, you’ve come to the wrong blog. At our ages, we are quite abit more sedate—at least so far. But we did still manage to pack in quite a bit AND be in our jammies before 10:00 PM. Here are just a few highlights.

Shopping Centers

You might think shopping centers are not very exciting. I would encourage you to think again. You see, SOME shopping centers in Tokyo have outdoor platforms which offer SPECTACULAR views, like this one, which overlooks the Imperial Palace.

Although can’t see the Imperial Palace, it is just inside that white wall and moat.
Do a 180, and THIS is what you see.

A vertical mall is the best way I can describe Tokyo’s shopping centers.

This one featured a particularly eye-catching mystery object. (At least it was a mystery to ME)

Having no clue what it was, I reached out to my Japan expert, 9 year old Oliver, who knew immediately that it Miraidon. Still in the dark, I consulted Ms Google, who offered further enlightenment. You are looking at a Pokémon character, which is also a drivable vehicle!

An up close view of Miraidon.

For those who wish to learn more, here’s the link.

https://www.japantimes.co.jp/business/2024/03/15/companies/toyota-pokemon-mobility/

The “malls” also house an abundance of restaurants. Our very congenial group has gotten quite efficient at selecting dining venues despite what has been a mind boggling selection. One night we had one of our best meals ever—delicious Wagyu beef. With our beverage of choice (mine was an alcoholic lemonade) my cost was $20.20 TOTAL ( I already checked my credit card online).

Sorry, no food photos. Did I mention my lemonade had alcohol in it? Knowing that, what do you think are the odds that I forgot a few possessions in the restaurant? Fortunately, a member of our group was on “baby sitting” duty that night.

I DID grab a quick shot of one of the floors while riding the escalator down. Why? Who knows. Blame it on the lemonade.

After visiting the famous Shibuya Crossing, four of us decided it was time for some fine dining, so we chose a restaurant with great food AND an equally wonderful view.

5 PM
6 PM
6:30 PM, with restaurant’s interior reflected on glass

Mass transit experiences

I’d heard that Tokyo’s system is easy to use. Maybe it is, if you have no other options, but WE were lucky to have Mori, who gave us a tutorial on how to get from point A to point B. ( if truth be told, he needed to do it more than once for our group).

Mori very thoughtfully purchased subway cards for us, preloaded with enough credits to allow multiple subway rides. The expandable carrier he gave us is a major stress reducer for someone like me. Without it, I would have been frantically searching through purse and pockets every time I approached the turnstile.

Light show

Tokyo’s government building in Shinjuku is the largest projection mapping site in the world. It’s a free 10 minute show, playing every night between 7 and 9 PM.

Cruising the streets

Streets are clean and safe and the architecture is breathtakingly beautiful at night.

It might not be obvious from the photo below and the header on this post, but the video playing on the billboard is three dimensional. I was so mesmerized, it was time to cross the street before I thought “ Damn, I should video this for the folks back home”.

Remember the splurge meal I mentioned earlier in this post? What better way to end than with a photo of my dessert and Sally’s empty champagne glass? Maybe a photo of the 4 party girls taking mass transit home might be better, so I’ll throw them both in.

No only does Mori make sure we take the right train, he also is our photography pro.

Highlights: Tokyo by Day

Bonsai

I had always thought that all there was to creating bonsai was diligently clipping a young plant. As usual, I was oh, so very wrong.

You begin by carefully selecting a tree from the mountain area, because its growth has already been stunted by the poor, rocky soil. THEN you slowly start clipping away, attempting to form an asymmetrical triangle. You help it along by wiring branches into position and by grafting shoots where you need a little extra oomph (sorta like what humans do when they want a little more ‘junk in the trunk” , to quote my friend Kathleen).

But if you have more money than time and patience, you just drop a million dollars and the 600 year old black pine on the left will be all yours. I preferred the one on the right, which was equally old, but a few hundred thousand dollars less.

I continued to demonstrate my total lack of sophistication and fine taste by being more captivated by OTHER sights at the site, like this beautifully simple floral arrangement in an exquisite vase.

I won’t tell you how much time I spent at the koi pond. Let’s say my little friend in the blue jacket got bored before I did. I couldn’t help but notice the gold one with the big mouth and think about a human version who continues to make a splash.

The National Museum

One could easily spend a full day admiring the ceramics, samurai swords and scrolls in Tokyo’s National Museum. MY favorite objects were the Buddhas and clothing.

I absolutely LOVE his facial expression. Yes, that guy’s a Buddha. In case you don’t believe me, here’s proof.

Of course, there were more traditional Buddhas, like this one

One final Buddhism photo, before I move to the clothing displays.

Now, whenever you see an onion shaped object, you should make a wish. If it comes true, then you will know that you had encountered a “ wish granting jewel”.

KIMONO

Back in the day, they had to figure out a way to keep that intricately embroidered clothing clean. Voila! The drying rack! But this one has a twist. You see that little object under the rack? That’s for burning incense. I couldn’t help but wonder how many kimonos went up in flames.

Fortunately, THIS kimono survived.

But not all of the beautiful kimonos were in glass cases.

Later, while admiring the stunning architecture of this building,

we noticed a flurry of kimonos, so we dashed to where they were gathering for several photo ops.

Cherry Blossoms

Okay, it’s still early, but every time we’d see a tree in bloom, we got super excited. we didn’t care if it was in front of a fence!

Notice our attire. That was one VERY COLD and windy day.

Mike, Renee, me and Patsy
See what I mean about packing for extremes in temperatures?

Famous “fish”market

I’ll be honest. This was my least favorite experience. The market extended over several streets and they were all pretty much like this.

The crowd gave me the perfect opportunity to practice my Zen breathing.

I was pleased to discover that the market offered a whole lot more than just seafood. I didn’t leave there empty-handed.

Today is the last day of our pretrip, so I’ll close with a photo of our fantastic group, taken by Mori in front of the national Museum.

Tonight, five more women will be joining us for the start of the main trip.

Tokyo FINALLY!

Okay, so we may have gotten off to a rough start, but man oh man, Tokyo is so WORTH the 14 hours of travel (even with a three hour flight delay).

Seven of us eager beavers arrived a day before the pre-trip started, so usually that would mean we’d be on our own for the arrival night and first day.

Did I mention that we hit the travel guide jack pot when we got Mori? We were delighted to see him waiting for us at the hotel, to take us to dinner. First, we helped shake off jet lag by walking to the Ginza area, ending up at the Ginza Six mall. And what a mall it was! Feast your eyes on some of the beautifully unique goods for sale here.

My favorite mall feature, however, was the rooftop garden that offered a spectacular view of the street below.

Despite the abundance of options at the mall, we decided to go for an authentic Japanese dinner of ramen noodles, pot stickers and beer —for about $10—at a tiny restaurant on one of the side streets, where we all sat at the counter. If anyone has ever seen The Midnight Diner, you would understand why we felt like we had wandered onto its set.

By the time we returned to our hotel, we were all more than ready for bed.

When I awoke I thought I had vanquished jet lag. Then I looked at the clock. 11:30 PM. Damn. After trying mightily to fall back asleep, at 2:30 AM I admitted defeat and popped a sleeping pill, which powered me through Saturday’s morning events.

As Mori suggested, we headed out early for the local “fish” market near our hotel. Although they certainly had plenty of fish, I was pleased to see they had a whole lot more. The ceramics were gorgeous, the paper place mats were beautifully painted, kitchen equipment was plentiful AND you could even get dried grasshoppers, if that was your thing!

As it got later, the crowds at the market got bigger, so we decided it was time for the peace and serenity of the “nearby” Hama-Riku Garden. But of course, we took a couple of wrong turns and ended up discovering this gorgeous temple.

The cards give instructions on the correct way to offer incense.

The Tsukili Hongwanji’s main hall houses the Amida Buddha. Sorry, I didn’t want to be disrespectful so I contented myself with this one quick photo. Trust me when I tell you Amida Buddha is beautiful.

I remember as a child, growing up in a Catholic school environment, I was urged to give my money to “purchase” a pagan baby in Japan. It tickled me to see that the Buddhists have missionary activities in the USA. I wonder if Japanese kids are trying to save the “ heathen” Christian children in the USA?

After leaving the main hall, we purified ourselves before entering the more intimate, empty hall.

A lovely Japanese lady demonstrated the proper purification method which Janis and Ruth performed

Relaxed and refreshed ( and purified) after our unplanned detour, we were ready for the Gardens.

Upon arrival, we learned there was a tour in English starting shortly. How lucky were we to get this fantastic guide! She provided the history of the gardens from the Shogun era (the mid 1600’s), to the Meiji restoration, then up to post WWII , when the emperor’s property was given to the municipal government. (She used visual aids, and rewarded those who gave correct answers to her questions.)

We learned that the property was originally a fort, until the Shogun decided to build a hunting ground for his falcons.

Throughout the grounds, canals brought in salt water from the nearby bay, attracting wild duck for the falcons to catch.

The traveling buddies: me, Kris, Janis, Ruth and Patsy. I scrunched down so I wouldn’t look “freakishly tall” as my dear friend Elena described it.

There’s so much more to say about our second day, but we are getting ready to start day 3 in this glorious city…more to follow.

I feel SO very lucky to have the privilege to experience this vibrant city. And I’m SO glad I decided to arrive 4 days before the start of the main trip!