Ragusa

Full disclosure.  This is no longer coming to you “live”.  We have been home for a week.  My blogging just couldn’t keep pace with our activities.  We were BUSY!  And when we weren’t busy, we were recuperating from the busyness… and drinking…and eating…and drinking.

Speaking of recuperation, the good news is that our friends recovered in time to join us the evening before we left for Ragusa.  Daniel, our wonderful guide (We all love you, Daniel!) sent a doctor to the hotel in Palermo, then arranged for a driver to pick them up and bring them to our next lodging–the beautiful Agriturismo Berlingeri.  AND while they were in Palermo, he had them moved to a larger room so they could be more comfortable.  Pretty thoughtful!

Looking good after taking advantage of the Italian medical system!

So, about Ragusa. It is actually TWO towns–lower and upper Ragusa.  After the earthquake in 1693, the majority of the population moved upward, but fortunately, some stayed behind to rebuild what is now Ragusa Ibla, the old town.

The two towns are connected by a LOOONG staircase. Graciela, our local guide, packed us onto a bus (and we were indeed packed) to the upper city so we could walk DOWN, which gave us ample opportunity to take in the panoramic views.

I didn’t count the steps, however it was NOT a strenuous stroll, especially given our frequent pauses–bathroom break, cold drinks, ogling everything.  Graciela’s interesting stories kept us entertained and engaged all the way down.

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See, not too bad.

Take a look at the underside of this balcony.  Graciela pointed out that the top figure on the left is asking the top figure on the right for more food and drink.  The figure on the left is responding with the universal hand signal for “go do something unmentionable to yourself.” Too bad the central figure is missing.  Wonder what HE would have had to contribute to this interaction.

Lesson learned: take time to look UP.  Cool things are EVERYWHERE!

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Is it just me, or are some of these characters in dire need of dental care?

Our walk ended at the cathedral, where St. George plays a prominent role. Here’s HIS story.  Initially, St. George was portrayed as a Roman soldier, who saw the light and ended up slaying the dragon.  Graciela explained the dragon symbolized the pagans who were threatening the Christians.

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Sometime during the middle ages, St. George got a make-over, becoming a medieval knight.  This time the dragon was more specific; he represented the Muslims and Turks who were battling the Christians for control of the holy land.  THAT St. George is portrayed in the huge painting on the cathedral wall.  Nobody seemed bothered that George was killing dragons in two different centuries!

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I bet you’re wondering what that silver and gold box in the middle of the cathedral is all about.  Nope, it doesn’t hold the 10 Commandments and it isn’t a casket–but close.   It holds 32 relics!  Fingers, toes, pieces of the original cross–who knows?  We didn’t get the specifics.  One of our guides later commented “How many fingers and toes do you think the saints had?”  Let’s ponder that for a while, and commend the entrepreneurs of the middle ages.

After our tour ended, we had free time to enjoy this lovely little mountain town.

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Although there is a little trolley that can take you on a tour, we decided to walk off some of the great food and wine we had been consuming.  Good thing, because the next day we headed off to a farm for a “Day in the Life” of a Sicilian family.

All OAT trips include a home visit or some kind of cultural exchange, and this trip was no exception.  Here are Maria and her son John Baptiste, welcoming us to the family farm.  John Baptiste, an archaeologist by training, is restoring the farm, which was his mother’s childhood home.  P1180424.jpg

I know this looks like it could be an instrument of torture from the Spanish Inquisition, but it is actually the original wine press.

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We didn’t make wine, but we DID help with the cooking, sorta the way my little 3 and 4 year old nieces help with cooking.  The woman in the brown shirt and white apron?  If it weren’t for her, the result would have been VERY different!

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The food was magnificent!  We could even tell ourselves that WE did some of the cooking.

Check out the oven.  Doesn’t get more authentic than this.

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So what else would you need to know if you are going to visit Ragusa?  Well, the hotel we stayed at–the San Giorgio Palace Hotel– is ideally located.  It is at the edge of town, carved into the hillside, and is within walking distance of everything — all of the restaurants, shops, cathedral and park.  There is a nice patio on the 4th floor, where you can sip a glass of wine and watch the sun go down over the hillside.  It was quite wonderful.

Next stop–Catania.

 

 

 

Oh, To Be Rich in Ancient Sicily! 

No one knows for sure who lived in the Villa Romana del Casale.  Some think it might have been the country home of Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius; others theorize a provincial governor lived and conducted administrative duties here.

It was constructed in the middle of the 4th century AD, and owes its remarkable preservation to the mudslide that covered the villa in the 12th century.  The building remained hidden until the 1950’s excavations.

Katya, our local expert, explained that we were going to view some of the finest examples of Roman mosaics in all of Europe, with scenes ranging from Homeric escapades to depictions of daily life, at this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Katya was excellent, and that was true of all the local guides on our trip.  We learned that our main guide, Daniel, had a choice of 4 or 5 different local guides for each site, and I have to say, he chose very well. Katya was interesting and so informative, a delight to listen to.

We began our tour by the aqueduct, which was the source of water for the baths–starting with the hot bath, and ending with the frigidarium, the cold bath.

The slaves kept the fires going in these ovens so that the baths were at the proper temperature.
I wasn’t taking notes, so don’t hold me to it, but I THINK this was the frigidarium.  Or it was something else.  Whatever.  It was impressive.


The main attraction of the villa is the floor mosaics, and they are absolutely magnificent.

Probably the most famous room, the 10  maidens are exercising, wearing the ancient version of bikinis.  And look, someone appears to have won the swimsuit competition, earning her a crown and a palm leaf to wave around.


Not quite so famous, but certainly as intriguing were these: one  example  of the many scenes of a hunt.

This woman’s clothing indicates she was from the eastern empire, possibly Muslim.  There is another mosaic of a similarly attired woman, being carried off by soldiers.   It isn’t hard to imagine what that mosaic was illustrating.

No commentary necessary for this one.


I particularly liked the depiction of the theater.  Looks like the legend of the Cyclops was being featured.

Those white squares on the mosaic–I thought someone had been littering, but no.  They were placed there intentionally to absorb moisture.


Here’s a close up of Cyclops.  I really DID like that mosaic!  Isn’t it amazing what the craftsmen were able to do with little colored stones?

One last look at the countryside and we’ll be on our way.  Our timing was fantastic.  We were leaving, just as hoards of tourists were arriving!

Mr Toad’s Wild Ride, Sicilian Style

It seems like every tour we’ve been on has had its own version of Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride, and Sicily is no exception.  In Modica, we careened through the narrow streets in vintage fiats.  No seat belts or other sissy stuff in these cars.  It’s just you,  your driver, and two other passengers sandwiched into these tiny vehicles.  I was wondering whether Mike would be able to get into one of these, and if he did, would he ever be able to get back OUT?


Okay, so now we know the answer to the first half of the question!

I was also glad to see that Jesus was riding along with Mike. In fact, it looks like he’s sitting in Mike’s lap.  Jesus’ name was undoubtedly invoked multiple times during our race through the alleys that the locals mistakenly think of as streets.

A few weeks ago, someone on the OAT forum asked whether WE would be able to drive a Fiat 5000.   After looking at the clearance on either side of the cars, you’ll have your answer.   Unless you have  a death wish, you wouldn’t WANT to!  The streets of Modica are ridiculously narrow, with blind corners, sharp turns, and steep hills.   I was very grateful to have an experienced local behind the wheel.

You definitely had to be there, but these photos will give you an inkling of what it was like!


Being by far the largest woman in the group, I decided to ride with smaller companions.  That scored me a front seat, from which I took those photos.

Here we are: Sue, our driver, me and Ann, still smiling after our ride ended.

The intrepid travelers assembled on the steps of one of Modica’s many churches for a group photo.

The views from the cathedral area were breath taking!


We ended our evening with a visit to a chocolate shop (yes, I made purchases, which could possibly become prizes. My sisters, nieces and cousins know what THAT means!).  As usual, we had an amazing dinner.  As usual, there was far more food than I could possibly eat.

A special treat was an unexpected visit to the local community band’s practice session.  We could hear them from the street, so Daniel (our wonderful guide) got permission for us to go inside.  Check out that young boy.  He was an AMAZING drummer.


They very nicely played John Phillip Souza’s “Stars and Stripes Forever” just for us!  What a wonderful memory.