What do we fun loving volunteers do on a weekend in Hanoi? Well, on Saturday we took a cooking class, beginning with a visit to the local market to buy ingredients for our Caramel Pork dish.
“Get off the showcase!” Bonus points to whoever can identify who said that.For some reason, we decided on a different vendor.This guy reminded me of the lobsters in the bathtub!Didn’t we pick these off rocks?Slap a little paint on these shells, and you’ve got yourself an ashtray!Our teacher had excellent English. In addition to cooking, he taught us the Vietnamese equivalents for “cheers” and “bottoms up”.If cooking (or drinking) gets too strenuous, I’m coming back here!Miss Shelley and Miss Sally, super chefsOur waiter was happy to keep us supplied with the “free flowing wine” mentioned in the brochure.
On Sunday, Jeannie, Sally and I made a day trip to the Perfume Pagoda, which we subsequently learned is Vietnam’s Mecca. We had thought that a boat ride on the river, into the mountains, would be a respite from the energy and dynamism of Hanoi. And had we visited during the summer, that is exactly what we would have experienced. Instead, we figured that it would have been more peaceful had we stayed in Hanoi, because it sure seemed like everyone in the city decided to visit the Pagoda with us. Beautiful scenery; quite a bit of traffic on the river.A Vietnamese StarbucksI thought there were a lot of boats on the river; I had NO IDEA how many boats were already there!Vietnam has no shortage of shopping opportunities, and religious sites are no exception. It is difficult to capture the sea of humanity at the Pagoda. I took this photo before it got crowded. Later, I couldn’t get my arms up to take a picture without bopping people around me. One of the lunch optionsThere’s a lot to be said for vegetarianism.
After lunch, we headed for the gondola. It didn’t take long for us to realize we were the only non-Asians in the very long line. During the one hour wait, the children used the opportunity to practice their English. Everyone wanted to say “hello” to us. Once again, I was impressed with the warmth and friendliness of the Vietnamese. You jump into and out of these. They don’t stop for passenger entry and exit. And if you take too long, the attendant gives you a little push to send you on your way.
A sweet young French girl who was on our tour decided to walk up, and arrived at the top before we did. (I wasn’t kidding about the long lines!) She reported that the way up was very hot and crowded, with gift and food stands lining the road the entire way. We know exactly what she meant. We SAW the rooftops during our gondola ride. So much for fresh mountain air. Sally and Jeannie, smiling on the boat ride back. You can’t keep those intrepid travelers down!
Finally, the blog and my location are in synch! Mike and I returned to Hanoi on March 1. On March 2, I started the solo phase of my Asian Adventure. As I was having dinner with team leader Jim and the other Global Volunteers at the Hanoi Legacy Hotel, Mike was heading to the airport. I was glad that he’d been able to spend time in my “neighborhood”, and meet a couple of the other volunteers. My boyfriend
Judy and Bob, the only married couple in the group, are from Cleveland Ohio. Jeannie is originally from Lancaster, Pa, but now lives in DC. Sally is from Michigan; both Tom and Jim are from Minnesota. All of the volunteers except Tom have been in Southeast Asia for at least three weeks, so we have adjusted to the time change. Jeannie has been here the longest, having left the US in mid January. Like Mike and me, she traveled with Road Scholar, but she took two back-to-back trips with them.
Sunday was orientation for us volunteers. We started by getting to know each other, discussed why we were volunteering, learned about Global Volunteers’ activities in Vietnam and had a brief meeting with the administrator and teachers at Nuguyen Binh Khiem School.
And now a little about our “home” for the next two weeks. Many of the buildings in Vietnam are extremely narrow and deep, and our hotel is no exception. As with the USA, the tax code has an impact beyond collection and disbursement of revenue. Taxes on buildings in Vietnam are determined by the width of the first floor. The hotel at 6:30 AM
So, to bring light into the rooms in the middle of the building, there is a small opening, the width of a window. The advantage to being in an interior room is you are sheltered from all of the street noise. A very big plus indeed. The view from my room.
Although the building is old, the bathroom is decidedly modern. I don’t usually get excited about a toilet, but this one is AMAZING! It has a bidet built right into it. My new friend Sally and I have declared that one of these will definitely be a part of our lives in the near future. (Are you reading this, Mike?). It even comes with instructions! A gadget that cleans your gadidgit
The shower is quite spectacular as well. We had something similar in Italy last summer, but this one has enough water pressure so that you could actually USE all the nozzles at the same time. Ahhhh, a great way to start or end your day.
Another great thing about this hotel is its location near Hoan Kiem lake. I love walking around the lake early in the morning; the locals are out dancing, exercising, massaging each other. Because there aren’t a lot of foreigners around in the morning I’ve been invited to participate in the activities.
One morning Sally joined me, making us prime candidates to participate in the “chicken dance”. Although I don’t have a photo of that stellar performance, judging from the number of cameras that were whipped out, countless Hanoi locals DO.
I’m thoroughly enjoying being with these friendly, gracious people. The kids are wonderful…curious, bright, fun. The older boys like using my camera, so when some of the children ran over to say hello, I handed the camera to one of the boys, and this was the result.
Only three more days till I head home.
We had to be at Hue’s airport by noon, so we started our morning early, with a boat ride up the Perfume River to visit the Beautiful Lady Pagoda and two of the Mausoleums.
Which dragon boat will be ours?Since we are the only passengers, we can sit anywhere we want.
The lady of the boat was also in charge of the “gift shop”. She’s very happy because I overpaid for a couple of items. Even Buddha is laughing at me! But she is pregnant, so I don’t feel bad about contributing to her unborn child’s well being.
At one time, each of the seven layers in the tower contained a gold Buddha statue, but overtime, they all disappeared.
Tower at Thien Mu Pagoda
Also on site is the car that was used to drive Thich Tri Quang, the monk that set himself on fire in Saigon. He was protesting the persecution of the Buddhists by the South Vietnamese Catholics, led by Diem.
Once again, I learned that I can’t leave Mike alone.
Everywhere he goes, Mike attracts attention!
This guy attracted MY attention.
Yes, those eyebrows and that beard ARE made of real hair
The ruling class did not suffer from low self esteem, as evidenced by their mausoleums. No humble hole in the ground for them. Their mausoleums also functioned as parks; they were so lovely the emperors used to spend time there while still alive.
There are seven levels, and 127 steep steps to the top.
Bao Dai, the “playboy” emperor, abdicated in 1945, but before he left, he constructed this tomb to honor his father, Khai Dinh. It was quite dazzling, with all the gold.
Life sized statue of Khai Dinh
But one statue is never enough.
The queen’s photo hangs on the top level. She doesn’t look very happy, but then, neither would I if Mike had scores of concubines.
I know that if “my girls” had been with me, THEY would have put on a costume and sat on the throne for me to photograph. Mike was not as cooperative, so I had to make do.
Time to leave for Hue’s airport. There are no jetways, so we walked down a flight of stairs, to the outside, where we boarded a bus that drove about 100 feet to the plane for our flight to Hanoi.
Yep, we DID ride that bus all the way to the plane.
As befitting the one time capital of Vietnam, Hue has a citadel, complete with a couple of moats, cannons and majestic gates with names like Gate of Everlasting Happiness.
If this isn’t the Gate of Everlasting Happiness, it SHOULD be.Gate detail. According to legend, the Vietnamese are descendants of dragons and fairies
We’ve all seen cannons, so you don’t need to see the whole thing, but I’ll bet you’ve never seen cannons as fancy as the ones at Hue.
The Vietnamese are incredible craftsmen. This is one of the “four seasons” guns.
The emperor lived in the Forbidden Purple City with his wives, concubines, daughters, young sons and female servants. If any male, other than the emperor, (or one of the eunuchs) attempted to enter the Purple City, he was put to death. I was quite excited about wandering thru the forbidden city, but unfortunately it was flattened during the Tet offensive or America’s response. Nothing remains of the emperor’s residence.
You’ll just have to use your imagination to conjure up the Forbidden City. Here is where it stood.
These galleries of Hue’s citadel have been restored and give you an idea of the glorious days of old.
Restored gallery
Our tour guide had gone to college in Hue, so he was full of great restaurant and bar restaurants. Instead Mike and I opted to have a wonderful dinner on the rooftop restaurant of our hotel, enjoying the perfect weather and the beautiful view.
The view of the Perfume River from our room
Speaking of our room, I’m not sure why the Mercure Hotel thinks showering is a spectator sport. Both of the Mercure Hotels had a “viewing” option. See what I mean?
This might have been a good idea 30 years ago…
One more day of our private tour, a day in Hanoi, then I’ll be telling you all about my Global Volunteers experience.
And now, the moment you’ve been waiting for–the answers to the last contest’s questions
1. We visited Halong Bay on this trip. Although Angkor Wat IS indeed a wonder of the world, it is man made, not a natural wonder.
2. Early in the morning, in Luang Prabang, the monks beg for their food.
3. The best way to tour Hanoi’s old quarter is a matter of opinion. Both Cyclo and on foot are correct, and yes, Lis, this was a trick question!
4. This question was specially for Kristy because of her fondness for the dong. The answer is Vietnam.
5. I lost my glasses once, but was able to retrieve them, because I remembered where I had left them–but Mike and his hat have parted ways for good.
6. The GI’s called the beach at DaNang “China Beach” because of all the porcelain they found there.
We drove through the mountains from HaiAn to Hue, a very beautiful ride up a narrow, winding road. There was no place to stop to take photos, and the blurry shots from the car immediately were deleted. When we got to the top, the view was spectacular, but too misty to capture in a photo. This mountaintop was at different times a fortress/ bunker for the Vietnamese (fighting the Chinese), the French and the Americans.
Vietnamese fortressFrench bunkerAmerican bunker
You’ll have to look carefully to see the American bunker above all the gift shops and buses.
What the area looks like todayThis photo probably only means something to my friend, John Reilly
It made me sad to think of all the American and Vietnamese lives lost or ruined by this senseless war. Amazingly enough, the Vietnamese don’t hold a grudge against us. They are very matter of fact about the war. We have been impressed by how tremendously polite, welcoming and gracious everyone has been to us.
As we descended the mountain, we were treated to a different, but equally fantastic view.
Lang Co Beach
This time I wore a more “wind resistant” skirt! Well, if I can put my feet into the Antarctic Ocean, you can bet I won’t miss stepping into the East Sea
Two more photos of our drive and then I’ll give your eyes a rest. Women working in the rice paddies
Vietnamese fishing boats (for my dad)
Mike and I thoroughly enjoyed our unstructured time in HoiAn. Our Road Scholar trip was action packed, with lots of sightseeing, cultural and educational experiences, starting early in the morning till early evening, so we were ready for some “down time”.
It was nice to linger over breakfast, which we did every morning, for about two hours, chatting with another American couple, enjoying the hotel gardens and the wonderful warm weather. And what breakfasts they were…just about everything imaginable…Asian style food (more like what we would eat for dinner), crepes, omelettes, croissants, and the juiciest, freshest fruits I have ever tasted. I think I have a mango addiction.
HoiAn is a delightful city, with the central section full of little shops, restaurants and cafes. It was closed off to motorbikes and cars, so it is a pleasure walking there. Mike and I did some of the usual tourist things, but mainly we walked around, ate and drank. Good thing everything I brought with me had an elastic waistband!
I couldn’t resist shopping for my three “shared” grandchildren–there were such cute purses and backpacks. I also succumbed to one of HoiAn’s many tailor shops. I think I would have fared better if I had had my fashion consultants with me, but hey, it was an experience and entertainment. (Isn’t that what the gamblers say after being in Atlantic City?). There will be a fashion show when I get home–you all can be the judges as to whether I am “in or owwwwwttt”. Me and super saleswoman Lou, while waiting for my new duds to be finished.
The temple was packed the day we visited, with the locals stopping by to purchase long red coils of incense that will slowly burn for several months. The yellow tags hanging from the incense have the family members’ names printed on them. I said a special prayer in front of this painting, asking the Sea Goddess to always keep Steve and Andrew safe. Painting of the sea goddess, rescuing the ship in distress. I so wanted to move that vase.
I have no idea what this is all about…I just liked it! Sitting by the river, watching the boats roll on by
A Bloody Mary toast for all the girls!
We took a day trip out to the Cham sanctuary, My Son. A significant portion of the sanctuary was destroyed by bombing. I climbed into one of the craters to give an idea of the depth of the hole, but that photo is on Mike’s camera. Not this crater–there was water in the bottom.
The area was beautiful, and so peaceful. The woods around My Son
Our guide was a photo enthusiast, who enjoyed using our cameras to take photos of us.
At night, the bridges and streets are all lit up, and young children sell candles that you float on the river. If you buy one, “your family be very happy”. (So, family, are you? You better be, cuz I bought one! That photo is also on Mike’s camera, but here’s a daytime shot of one of the bridges.)
It’s about time for a few questions, don’t you think?
1. Which of the seven new natural wonders of the world did we visit on this trip?
2. Early in the morning, in Luang Prabang, what can you watch the monks doing?
3. The best way to tour Hanoi’s old quarter is
A. By watching a travel video
B. By bus
C. On a cyclo
D. On foot
4. In which country is the currency known as a dong?
5. Who do you think PERMANENTLY lost an object?
A. Mike lost his hat
B. Shelley lost her glasses?
6. Why did the GI’s call the beach at DaNang “China Beach”?
After our Road Scholar trip ended, Mike and I started Part Three of our Asian Adventure, this time just the two of us, traveling through Central Vietnam with a guide and driver, arranged by Ann Tours.
We flew from Hanoi to DaNang, where our guide Ahn met us. Although the buses were comfortable, and air conditioned, it still felt rather luxurious to have a Mercedes all to ourselves.
What remains of the former US airbase at DaNangModern DaNang, with its new bright yellow serpent bridges.
The Cham Museum contains sculptures from My Son, a religious sanctuary dating back to the 4th century. When an area was conquered, the invaders cut off the heads and hands of the religious statues to decrease their power.
Lakshmi’s hands were originally holding a lotus blossom
But more interesting to me was this frieze, showing the art of massage dated back more than 1600 years in Central Vietnam.
I can’t let all those years of expertise go to waste. There will be a massage in my future!
We made a quick stop at DaNang’s beach, better known by the American soldiers as China Beach because of all the porcelain found buried in the sand. Here’s one of the few “G” rated photos from that stop.
“China” Beach
Last stop before HoiAn was in the Marble Mountains. We climbed well over 100 steps that were carved into the mountain, all with different sized steps (steep, steeper, steepest).
The lady in blue decided I would make a dandy handrail, so she grabbed onto me as she climbed downAt the top of the first “staircase”, smiling Buddha (happiness), with a fat belly (prosperity) and long ears (longevity)was waiting to welcome us.
As we climbed higher, the view got better.
But the most awe inspiring experience was when we entered the huge cave.
Sunlight from holes in the roof of the cave gave the interior a very spiritual feel
.
Our hotel was fantastic–my very favorite of the entire trip. Welcome drink and fruit at the HaAn Hotel
Yes, those are rose petals on the bed
Check out the shower. You can see the plants hanging on the back wall if you look in the mirror. And yes, there were flowers scattered at the bases of the shower and the toilet. Stones in the shower. You stand on that white platform under the shower head.
Our tour company booked us here for three nights. Great choice!
Mike and I are now traveling on our own, after our whirlwind tour with Road Scholar, through Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. And what a tour it was!
My blog couldn’t keep pace with our activities and even now, this summary will only provide a taste of those incredible 20 days.
Here are a few of the many reasons I love Road Scholar.
SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE
Road Scholar made contributions on our behalf to the two village schools and hospital we visited.
One nurse per 500 children at the outpatient clinic of this free hospitalLook who else visited the hospital–but not while we were there.
While traveling in Cambodia a few years ago, the Spitlers asked their guide to suggest a worthwhile project. The end result was this village school.
Sarin, Cambodian tour guide, and head of the Spitler School
Prior to the Spitler School, children in this village had no opportunity for education.
Yes, we were captivated.
JAW DROPPING EXPERIENCES
Mike, taking in the majesty of Angkor WatThe demons guarding the bridge to Angkor ThomOne of the many faces of King Jayavarman 7Good guys on the left, demons on the right, churning the sea of milk with Jayavarman 7 gazing down on it all
And of course, the many Buddha images in Laos and Thailand were unforgettable and impressive.
WONDERFUL LECTURES
Tony Zola, another former Peace Corp volunteer who settled in Asia, was a fascinating lecturer. He spoke to us in Thailand and Laos.Tara (an American)and a local Lao woman created the Museum of Art and Ethnology.We had an amazing lunch at Fabian’s stilt home in a Laotian village, followed by a lecture.
GREAT COMPANIONS
Fantastic experiences are even better when shared with like minded companions.
The jungle templeShowing off our Baci Ceremony strings
CULTURAL IMMERSION
Elephant CampHanoi Water Puppet ShowLanna danceAncient musical instruments. That IS an elephant carved on the end of that bowOne of the marriage stories in the museum of Art and EthnologyFrom night markets…To rice paddies, we saw it all
BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE
INCREDIBLE FOOD
Judging from their rounded bellies, I think these apsaras just finished a Road Scholar trip!
I’ll give your eyeballs a rest, and stop with the photos.
You’ll just have to take my word for it, this trip was AMAZING!
For this post, the pictures will (mainly) speak for themselves.
HaLong Bay is about 4 hours by bus north of Hanoi.
I think the ballot box may have been stuffed for some of these choices, but Halong Bay definitely deserves to be on the list.The surrounding area is starting to get built up, with lots of hotels across from the beach.We, however, spent the night on the Emeraude.Take a good look. Can you find the shower? What about the “closet”?Great views from the top deck (and the middle and the lower decks)but the top deck has the bar!
I didn’t expect penguins in Vietnam Or monkeys…My sister Sue always wanted a pet monkey. I tried to convince this one to come home with me. Check out her facial expression for her answer.
We took a tender to the Surprise Cave. The third cave was enormous!
We climbed over 100 steps (I lost count) to an opening that gave us this wonderful vantage point.
I couldn’t resist posting two shots–one framed,one not. You get to choose which you prefer.
These ladies were waiting for us to return to the ship so they could sell us some of their handmade goods. How lucky were we, to see night fall on Halong Bay And with an almost full moon. My photos don’t do it justice.Sunrise on the bayEast coast girl, hanging out, enjoying the view.We cruised for a while, enjoying the effect the changing light had on the seascape (bayscape?)Time to return to Hanoi for our farewell dinner and the end of this phase of our Asian Adventure.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, our Asian Adventure will be our longest trip, both in weeks away and in flight time. Packing for six weeks felt more than slightly overwhelming, so I decided to reframe my thinking. Instead, I packed for TWO weeks, something I have done many times. I reminded myself that there IS such a thing as hand washing in hotel sinks and/or laundry service.
I also needed to make sure I have enough toys in my carry on to keep me sane during our 20 hours in the air. I think I have it covered with my iPad and a paperback.
Normally I use a backpack as my carry on; it has just enough room for my camera, money, “toys” and snacks. I usually don’t pack a change of clothes, but we only have a one hour layover in Korea, so to lower my anxiety level, I’m taking a “real” carry on. That way, I can include some essentials, just in case we get separated from our checked bags.
Checked luggage
3 lightweight long pants (including one in carry on and one to wear on plane), 3 long skirts, 1 dress. Asians dress more formally, so I am leaving shorts and capris at home.
6 short sleeve shirts ( 2 in carry on), 4 long sleeve shirts to protect against mosquitoes (one will be worn on plane.) No tanks or sleeveless tops.
2 belts, sun hat, 1 scarf, 1 alpaca wrap, cheap jewelry (the only kind I own)
1 Bathing suit, a bathing cap (Yes, I actually own such a thing to minimize the amount of chlorine in my hair), 1 cover up (doubles as bathrobe), 1 sarong, flip-flops
2 sandals, 1 flats (I’ll wear my Merrill’s on the plane)
2 pajamas (1 in carry on)
7 changes of underwear, 6 socks (2 changes in carry on)
Lightweight rain jacket with hood (no umbrella needed), fleece, sweater for cool nights in Vietnam –these will all be worn to the airport, and if weight and space allow, will be stashed in luggage before it is checked.
Sun screen, insect repellant, body lotion, baby powder
flash light
Materials for Global Volunteers work (photos, books, index cards, chalk, teaching aids-these are the heaviest items)
Starbucks Via. I learned about these single serving packets of instant coffee from another blogger so decided to stock up, just in case we need an early morning jolt.
my backpack
elastic bands, extra zip lock bags, a couple of packs of woolite
my medical stuff: band-aids, z-pack, Imodium, Neosporin, Advil. I read somewhere that Asian diets are low in fiber, so fiber capsules were recommended. We never needed them before, but there was room in the luggage, so what the heck.
Carry On
Credit card, bank card, local currency, singles
Passport, passport photos for visas, immunization card, global entry card
Etickets, travel info, notebook, pencil & pens
Camera, batteries, charger, photo cards and camera bag
Clothes listed above and change of clothes for Mike. (He did his own packing–I don’t meddle.)
extra toothbrush and paste
Fanny pack and “Neck Wallet”
Believe it or not, it all fit. Here’s what the packed bags and plane wardrobe looks like:
I used lots of gallon zip lock bags and a packing cube to keep things organized.
In my never-ending quest to pack “smart” and to share what I have learned, upon return, I will fess up to any items that I brought but didn’t need, and will also list anything that I didn’t have but wished that I had.
Only 72 hours till lift off. Fellow travelers–have I forgotten anything???
Destination NOW 