HoiAn, a beautiful little town

Mike and I thoroughly enjoyed our unstructured time in HoiAn. Our Road Scholar trip was action packed, with lots of sightseeing, cultural and educational experiences, starting early in the morning till early evening, so we were ready for some “down time”.

It was nice to linger over breakfast, which we did every morning, for about two hours, chatting with another American couple, enjoying the hotel gardens and the wonderful warm weather. And what breakfasts they were…just about everything imaginable…Asian style food (more like what we would eat for dinner), crepes, omelettes, croissants, and the juiciest, freshest fruits I have ever tasted. I think I have a mango addiction.

HoiAn is a delightful city, with the central section full of little shops, restaurants and cafes. It was closed off to motorbikes and cars, so it is a pleasure walking there. Mike and I did some of the usual tourist things, but mainly we walked around, ate and drank. Good thing everything I brought with me had an elastic waistband!

I couldn’t resist shopping for my three “shared” grandchildren–there were such cute purses and backpacks. I also succumbed to one of HoiAn’s many tailor shops. I think I would have fared better if I had had my fashion consultants with me, but hey, it was an experience and entertainment. (Isn’t that what the gamblers say after being in Atlantic City?). There will be a fashion show when I get home–you all can be the judges as to whether I am “in or owwwwwttt”.

Me and super saleswoman Lou, while waiting for my new duds to be finished.
Me and super saleswoman Lou, while waiting for my new duds to be finished.

The temple was packed the day we visited, with the locals stopping by to purchase long red coils of incense that will slowly burn for several months. The yellow tags hanging from the incense have the family members’ names printed on them. I said a special prayer in front of this painting, asking the Sea Goddess to always keep Steve and Andrew safe.

Painting of the sea goddess, under the incense coils and behind the vase.
Painting of the sea goddess, rescuing the ship in distress. I so wanted to move that vase.

I have no idea what this is all about...I just liked it!
I have no idea what this is all about…I just liked it!

Sitting by the river, watching the boats roll on by
Sitting by the river, watching the boats roll on by

A Bloody Mary toast for all the girls!
A Bloody Mary toast for all the girls!

We took a day trip out to the Cham sanctuary, My Son. A significant portion of the sanctuary was destroyed by bombing. I climbed into one of the craters to give an idea of the depth of the hole, but that photo is on Mike’s camera.

Not this crater--there was water in the bottom.
Not this crater–there was water in the bottom.

The area was beautiful, and so peaceful.
The woods around My Son
The woods around My Son

Our guide was a photo enthusiast, who enjoyed using our cameras to take photos of us.
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At night, the bridges and streets are all lit up, and young children sell candles that you float on the river. If you buy one, “your family be very happy”. (So, family, are you? You better be, cuz I bought one! That photo is also on Mike’s camera, but here’s a daytime shot of one of the bridges.)
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It’s about time for a few questions, don’t you think?
1. Which of the seven new natural wonders of the world did we visit on this trip?
2. Early in the morning, in Luang Prabang, what can you watch the monks doing?
3. The best way to tour Hanoi’s old quarter is
A. By watching a travel video
B. By bus
C. On a cyclo
D. On foot
4. In which country is the currency known as a dong?
5. Who do you think PERMANENTLY lost an object?
A. Mike lost his hat
B. Shelley lost her glasses?
6. Why did the GI’s call the beach at DaNang “China Beach”?

Next stop, HoiAn

After our Road Scholar trip ended, Mike and I started Part Three of our Asian Adventure, this time just the two of us, traveling through Central Vietnam with a guide and driver, arranged by Ann Tours.

We flew from Hanoi to DaNang, where our guide Ahn met us. Although the buses were comfortable, and air conditioned, it still felt rather luxurious to have a Mercedes all to ourselves.

What remains of the former US airbase at DaNang
What remains of the former US airbase at DaNang
Modern DaNang, with its new bright yellow serpent bridges.
Modern DaNang, with its new bright yellow serpent bridges.

The Cham Museum contains sculptures from My Son, a religious sanctuary dating back to the 4th century. When an area was conquered, the invaders cut off the heads and hands of the religious statues to decrease their power.

Lakshmi's hands were originally holding a lotus blossom
Lakshmi’s hands were originally holding a lotus blossom

But more interesting to me was this frieze, showing the art of massage dated back more than 1600 years in Central Vietnam.

I can't let all those years of expertise go to waste.  There will be a massage in my future!
I can’t let all those years of expertise go to waste. There will be a massage in my future!

We made a quick stop at DaNang’s beach, better known by the American soldiers as China Beach because of all the porcelain found buried in the sand. Here’s one of the few “G” rated photos from that stop.

"China" Beach
“China” Beach

Last stop before HoiAn was in the Marble Mountains. We climbed well over 100 steps that were carved into the mountain, all with different sized steps (steep, steeper, steepest).

The lady in blue decided I would make a dandy handrail, so she grabbed onto me as she climbed down
The lady in blue decided I would make a dandy handrail, so she grabbed onto me as she climbed down
At the top of the first "staircase", smiling Buddha (happiness), with a fat belly (prosperity) and long ears (longevity)
At the top of the first “staircase”, smiling Buddha (happiness), with a fat belly (prosperity) and long ears (longevity)was waiting to welcome us.

As we climbed higher, the view got better.
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But the most awe inspiring experience was when we entered the huge cave.

Sunlight from holes in the roof of the cave gave the interior a very spiritual feel
Sunlight from holes in the roof of the cave gave the interior a very spiritual feel

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Our hotel was fantastic–my very favorite of the entire trip.

Welcome drink and fruit at the HaAn Hotel
Welcome drink and fruit at the HaAn Hotel

Yes, those are rose petals on the bed
Yes, those are rose petals on the bed

Check out the shower. You can see the plants hanging on the back wall if you look in the mirror. And yes, there were flowers scattered at the bases of the shower and the toilet.
Stones in the shower.  You stand on that white platform under the shower head.
Stones in the shower. You stand on that white platform under the shower head.

Our tour company booked us here for three nights. Great choice!

Why I Love Road Scholar!

Mike and I are now traveling on our own, after our whirlwind tour with Road Scholar, through Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. And what a tour it was!
My blog couldn’t keep pace with our activities and even now, this summary will only provide a taste of those incredible 20 days.
Here are a few of the many reasons I love Road Scholar.

SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE
Road Scholar made contributions on our behalf to the two village schools and hospital we visited.

One nurse per 500 children at the outpatient clinic of this free hospital
One nurse per 500 children at the outpatient clinic of this free hospital
Look who else visited the hospital--but not while we were there.
Look who else visited the hospital–but not while we were there.

While traveling in Cambodia a few years ago, the Spitlers asked their guide to suggest a worthwhile project. The end result was this village school.
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Sarin, a Cambodian tour guide, and head of the Spitler School
Sarin, Cambodian tour guide, and head of the Spitler School

Prior to the Spitler School, children in this village had no opportunity for education.
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Yes, we were captivated.
Yes, we were captivated.

JAW DROPPING EXPERIENCES

Mike, taking in the majesty of Angkor Wat
Mike, taking in the majesty of Angkor Wat
The demons guarding the bridge to Angkor Thom
The demons guarding the bridge to Angkor Thom
One of the many faces of King  Jayavarman 7
One of the many faces of King Jayavarman 7
Good guys on the left, demons on the right, churning the sea of milk
Good guys on the left, demons on the right, churning the sea of milk with Jayavarman 7 gazing down on it all

And of course, the many Buddha images in Laos and Thailand were unforgettable and impressive.
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WONDERFUL LECTURES

Tony Zola, another former Peace Corp volunteer who settled in Asia, was a fascinating lecturer.  He spoke to us in Thailand and Laos.
Tony Zola, another former Peace Corp volunteer who settled in Asia, was a fascinating lecturer. He spoke to us in Thailand and Laos.
Tara (an American)and a local Lao woman created the Museum of  Art and Ethnology.
Tara (an American)and a local Lao woman created the Museum of Art and Ethnology.
We had an amazing lunch at Fabian's stilt home in a  Laotian village, followed by a lecture.
We had an amazing lunch at Fabian’s stilt home in a Laotian village, followed by a lecture.

GREAT COMPANIONS
Fantastic experiences are even better when shared with like minded companions.
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The jungle temple
The jungle temple
Showing off our Baci Ceremony stringe
Showing off our Baci Ceremony strings

CULTURAL IMMERSION

Elephant Camp
Elephant Camp
Water Puppet Show
Hanoi Water Puppet Show
Lanna dance
Lanna dance
Ancient musical instruments.  That IS an elephant carved on the end of that bow
Ancient musical instruments. That IS an elephant carved on the end of that bow
One of the marriage stories in the museum of Art and Ethnology
One of the marriage stories in the museum of Art and Ethnology
From night markets...
From night markets…
To rice paddies, we saw it all
To rice paddies, we saw it all

BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE
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INCREDIBLE FOOD
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Judging from their rounded bellies, I think these apsaras just finished a Road Scholar trip!
Judging from their rounded bellies, I think these apsaras just finished a Road Scholar trip!

I’ll give your eyeballs a rest, and stop with the photos.
You’ll just have to take my word for it, this trip was AMAZING!

Halong Bay

For this post, the pictures will (mainly) speak for themselves.
HaLong Bay is about 4 hours by bus north of Hanoi.image

I think the ballot box may have been stuffed for some of these choices, but Halong Bay definitely deserves to be on the list of Natural Wonders.
I think the ballot box may have been stuffed for some of these choices, but Halong Bay definitely deserves to be on the list.
The surrounding area is starting to get built up, with lots of hotels across from the beach.
The surrounding area is starting to get built up, with lots of hotels across from the beach.
We, however, spent the night on the Emeraude.
We, however, spent the night on the Emeraude.
Take a good look.  Can you find the shower?
Take a good look. Can you find the shower? What about the “closet”?
Great views from the top deck (and the middle and  the lower decks)
Great views from the top deck (and the middle and the lower decks)but the top deck has the bar!

I didn't expect penguins in Vietnam
I didn’t expect penguins in Vietnam

Or monkeys...
Or monkeys…
My sister Sue always wanted a pet monkey.  I tried to convince this one to come home with me.
My sister Sue always wanted a pet monkey. I tried to convince this one to come home with me. Check out her facial expression for her answer.

We took a tender to the Surprise Cave.  The third cave was enormous!
We took a tender to the Surprise Cave. The third cave was enormous!

We climbed over 100 steps (I lost count) to an opening that gave us this wonderful vantage point.

I couldn't resist posting two shots--one framed,one not. You get to choose which you prefer.
I couldn’t resist posting two shots–one framed,one not. You get to choose which you prefer.

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These ladies were waiting for us to return to the ship so they could sell us some of their handmade goods.
These ladies were waiting for us to return to the ship so they could sell us some of their handmade goods.

How lucky were we, to see night fall on Halong Bay
How lucky were we, to see night fall on Halong Bay

And with an almost full moon.my photos don't do it justice.
And with an almost full moon. My photos don’t do it justice.
Sunrise on the bay
Sunrise on the bay
East coast girl, hanging out, enjoying the view.
East coast girl, hanging out, enjoying the view.
We cruised for a while, enjoying the effect the changing light had on the seascape (bayscape?)
We cruised for a while, enjoying the effect the changing light had on the seascape (bayscape?)
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Time to return to Hanoi for our farewell dinner and the end of this phase of our Asian Adventure.
Time to return to Hanoi for our farewell dinner and the end of this phase of our Asian Adventure.

Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride

The elephant ride in Thailand was tame, compared to our cyclo excursion through Hanoi’s old quarter. Imagine 22 of us oldies but goodies being pedaled through narrow crowded, crooked streets. Actually, you don’t have to imagine, because through the magic of digital photography, we captured this thrilling adventure for you.

One of my Pennsylvania buddies was right in front of me, so I was able to get a couple of shots of her, and she returned the favor.

Linda, relaxed and happy at the start of the ride.
Linda, relaxed and happy at the start of the ride.

Linda, after riding for a few minutes...check out the expression...
Linda, after riding for a few minutes…check out the expression…
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I wasn’t looking behind me, so didn’t see how close the car and motorbike were to my fearless driver.

Photo by Linda
Photo by Linda. Please note. I am wearing the scarf I dyed, and the skirt I purchased at the night market in Laos

Mike was following close behind.

And mom always thinks he's got more sense than me!
And mom always thinks he’s got more sense than me!

It actually was a great way to see the city. I could check out the shops for later purchases. Hmmm, which sister or cousin will be getting something from the “Toxic Shop”? Or would a propaganda poster make a better “prize”?

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One more shot to make sure you got the full effect of Hanoi streets, then we will move on to other highlights.
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You can’t visit Hanoi without paying your respects to Ho Chi Minh.

Ho Chi Minh's embalmed body lies in this mausoleum.
Ho Chi Mihn’s embalmed body lies in this mausoleum.

This French colonial governor’s mansion was very briefly Ho Chi Minh’s home until he was able to settle into something more to his taste.
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This house on stilts was where Ho Chi Minh preferred to live.
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Ho Chi Minh's bedroom
Ho Chi Mihn’s bedroom. Personally, I prefer a sleep number bed.

On to the Temple of Literature, which was beautifully decorated for New Year. Like many Americans, they are not in a big rush to take down their decorations, giving the Temple an even more festive look.
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The Vietnamese do amazing things with flowers and plants
The Vietnamese do amazing things with flowers and plants

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Turtles are VERY important to the Vietnamese. Unfortunately, I was in the “happy” room when our guide was explaining the significance of these turtle sculptures, so I missed that part, but I know it had to do with education. Google it, if you want specifics–or you can just enjoy the photos.
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We have an early morning tomorrow, so that’s all for today. Hugs to all and a big hello to all Sue’s co-workers. Glad you are following along!

One day you’re hot, and the next day you’re not.

We spent our last morning in Cambodia cruising to the Tonle Sap Lake. During the dry season, the tributaries leading to the lake drop to a depth between 3 and 5 feet, but during the rainy season, the area floods, with the water level rising to between 24 and 30 feet, which explains why the houses are on stilts.

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The children were all very cute and friendly, waving from the banks.
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These tykes were too close to the river for MY comfort level.
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It was slow going, getting to the lake, because we were quite a bit larger than the average Cambodian (an understatement), weighing the boat down in the already shallow passageway. That gave us plenty of time to take in the sights.

A fish farm
A fish farm

The bathroom
The bathroom

As usual, our excellent guide took good care of us, bringing along more snacks than we could eat. I’ve developed a very strong attachment to mangosteens, which are rightfully known as “the queen of fruits”.
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Tonle Sap Lake was quite beautiful. I particularly liked the floating restaurants.
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On the way back, Man tossed fruit and snacks to the kids. This little boy was delighted with his catch.
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Time to move — to another country and another climate. North Vietnam is quite a bit cooler than the other three countries we visited, as you might guess from our wardrobe.

"Well, east coast girls are hip, I really dig those styles they wear". -- the Beach Boys
“Well, east coast girls are hip, I really dig those styles they wear”. — the Beach Boys

And now a preview of coming attractions…tune in again for the Hanoi version of “Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride”.

Random Images

Jean requested that I post more photos of Mike and me. Mike’s photo card isn’t compatible with my iPad, I can’t get at his photos till I am home. Some other travelers were kind enough to get a few shots of us together. So Jean, these are for you.

After dinner...full bellies and big smiles (or is "big smiles and even bigger bellies" a bit more accurate?
After dinner…full bellies and big smiles or is “big smiles and even bigger bellies” a bit more accurate?

At Banteay Srei, the Temple of the Women
At Banteay Srei, the Temple of the Women

Mike, looking thoughtful.
My Valentine...
My Valentine…

Time for group shots:
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Our wonderful guide made sure we had front row seats for the Angkor Wat sunrise
Our wonderful guide made sure we had front row seats for the Angkor Wat sunrise

I DID promise random shots, so here goes. This is the walkway leading to the “laundry” less than a block from the Tara Angkor Hotel. For $12 we got two weeks worth of dirty clothes washed and folded. You might wonder where, because all that is visible are soda cans and umbrellas, which explains why I walked by the place twice. The laundry, you see,is also a cafe. These Cambodians are hard working AND ingenious.

The "bridge" didn't look all that sturdy, but fortunately, the stream wasn't very deep.
The “bridge” didn’t look all that sturdy, but fortunately, the stream wasn’t very deep.

Lest you think the hotel is equally rustic, let me show you the elegance of this gorgeous hotel. Seven of us ladies, and Mike, sipped our gin and tonics in this locale.
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The pool had a Goldilocks temperature…not too hot, not too cold–just right. So refreshing!
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Now for your viewing pleasure, the Southeast Asia version of “Planes, trains and automobiles”

Al is a tad too tall for the tuk tuk
Al is a tad too tall for the tuk tuk
Our chariot to and from Laos.
Our chariot to and from Laos.
Comfortable AND decorative buses
Our guide, Mr Long, in our very comfortable AND decorative bus

I tried several times to send Hal and Karen this photo via email. Maybe the post will succeed. Well, this WAS a mode of travel.

My Canadian friends
My Canadian friends

So far, we’ve had two trips on the Mighty Mekong. The first was in Laos, to the caves.
Those ARE recycled car seats that we a sitting on!
Those ARE recycled car seats that we are sitting on!

The second trip, in Cambodia, was quite an experience because the water level was so low, and the water was extremely muddy.

Beautiful, friendly children were all along the river.
Beautiful, friendly children were all along the river.

No, our boat went QUITE like those on the bank. THIS was our boat.
Enthusiastic photographers
Enthusiastic photographers

Next stop, Vietnam.

Angkor Wat at Dawn

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I don’t have enough adjectives to describe what it wa like to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat. Although my photos don’t do it justice, they will give you a rough idea of the grandeur of this sacred spot. It was worth getting up at 4:30 in the morning to view this remnant of an amazing civilization!
image The moat surrounding Angkor Wat represents the ocean you cross to enter heaven; it also serves as a wonderful mirror, heightening the beauty of the structure.
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Although we did a lot more today, there are only photos of Angkor Wat because anything else would look puny by comparison.

The five towers were constructed to resemble closed Lotus buds. The central tower represents Mount Meru, the home of the gods.
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Only the king and monks were allowed on the third level of Angkor Wat and they were required to CRAWL up to show respect for the gods, so the stairs were suitably steep.
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Although I don’t smoke cigarettes or eat products with hydrogenated oil, I HAVE been known to occasionally engage in risky behavior. Besides, I wanted to get in touch with my inner goddess, so of course I was climbing to the third level. The view was spectacular!
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I think I might have even had a vision of the Buddha. image Or could it be that the altitude produced hallucinations?
What a relief that I didn’t have to crawl up. After a few people fell from the stone steps, this wooden staircase was constructed. Only 43 steps to the top, but like the original, they were quite steep.

Two of my Pennsylvania pals, strutting their stuff
Two of my Pennsylvania pals, strutting their stuff

Another view of the moat
Another view of the moat

Since this is a shorter post, why not have a little contest? This one is fairly easy.

1. During this trip we have visited two places that were settings for movies. What were the movies,
2. and where were the locations?
3. Of the 4 countries we are visiting, which are constitutional monarchies and which are people’s republics?
4. Whose picture is on the Bhat?
5. What is the difference between the Chinese Buddha and the Buddha in the other Southeast Asian countries?
6. What precious stone is the emerald Buddha made of?
7. Who taught her granddaughter to cross streets fearlessly?

Luang Prabang, Laos

More highlights from Laos. The city of Luang Prabang is lovely, a nice mix of old and new…the “sometimes” nature of wifi was a reminder that we were in a developing country.

We visited a village along the Mekong, delivering gifts from Road Scholar: tin and wood for the school-house roof.
I found the village signs interesting. As you can see, the Lao aren’t big on spaces between words, which make it an extremely challenging language to learn.

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Their English is way better than MY Laotian. I have barely learned how to say “hello”.

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Our young guide escorted us to the schoolhouse.
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The kiddies were on their lunch break, but they gathered to sing to us.  We reciprocated with a rousing chorus of “row, row, row your boat.”

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How could I not buy something from this sweet boy? I think Low Price Lenny might like a snail with a Buddha painted on his back.
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Notice the bill in the baby’s hand? She helped her mother sell me a scarf so she demanded HER cut!
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One more view of the Mekong, then we were on our way back to Luang Prabang.

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First our guide Man (that’s his name, not a description) serenaded us, then he turned into a bartender, whipping up some killer gin and tonics. What a great way to end the trip!
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Several of the ladies decided we could fit in another trip to the night market and a relaxing drink at the Villa Santi if we got ourselves to The Indestructible Rock (that night’s restaurant) on our own. No photos of that excursion…just great memories.

Lovely Laos

The Internet is a “sometimes” thing in Laos, which makes blogging a challenge. So, that’s why these posts are being uploaded in Cambodia. But I sure did love our time in Luang Prabang. Get ready for some highlights.

Monks get up at 4 AM every day. They are not allowed to eat after noon; all their food comes from donations so they hit the road early every morning. The head monk leads the way, followed by the “novices”. I don’t blame this little guy for yawning…so was I.
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Back View, heading to the WAT
Back View, heading to the WAT

We followed them to Wat Xiang Thong, formerly the Royal Palace back when Luang Prabang was the capital of Laos. When the king decided to move the capital to Vientiane, he donated his home to the monks.

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The techniques to create the beautiful glass mosaics were learned from the Japanese.

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Similar mosaics cover the walls of the Throne Room in the National Museum, but we weren’t allowed to photograph there. In the National Museum, the walls and ceilings are a deep Chinese red, which makes the glass mosaics even more stunning. The National Museum was built by the French for the last King of Thailand, who ended up in a reeducation camp after the 1975 revolution.

We visited Ock Pop Tok (East meets West) where we met Jo and Val, who demonstrated how their beautiful silk garments were made, starting from the silkworm, through weaving and dying.

Val and Jo
Val and Jo

Do you recognize one of the workers, busily (and professionally) dying a silk scarf?
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SE_ASIA 464

We managed to cruise through both the night and the morning markets. These markets are set up and taken down every day!

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Speaking of cruising, we did just that, along the Mekong, to the Pak Ou caves, an important religious site for Laos.

Mike, intently studying the map of the Mekong
Mike, intently studying the map of the Mekong

 

The view of the river from the cave
The view of the river from the cave

Barbara left a small Buddha in the cave, just like a local.

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Could that be Indiana Jones, looking for Buddha?

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Getting to and from our vessel took balance, as demonstrated by Linda.

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