Berlin showed up on our Viking itinerary as one of the ports of call. Geography never was my strong suit, but even I knew that Berlin has no oceanfront property. Although Viking arranged free transportation by train to Berlin, we decided that we didn’t want to spend approximately 6 hours traveling back and forth. Besides, we will probably never get back to Rostock and Warnemunde, but a few days in Berlin may indeed be in our future.
We did not regret our decision. Our day started with a German breakfast of pretzels and “liquid gold”, the German invention we Americans call beer.
Our guide, Enrico, shared lots of fun facts about 9th century beer consumption:
Beer was given to children because it was cleaner than the available water
It was drunk warm, like soup from a bowl
The monks consumed beer during their fasts; apparently it didn’t count because you didn’t chew it?
Beer was also thought of as liquid bread.
Fast forward to modern times:
Germans consume approximately 30 gallons of beer per person per year.
You can buy beer anywhere and consume it anywhere. It is okay to be intoxicated in public, just as long as you don’t do something stupid. (A drunk person doing something stupid? How often does THAT happen?)
Beer isn’t taxed, and the drinking age is 16. Sorry kiddies–that’s the down side of having access to clean water.
The last two weeks of September is Oktoberfest in Munich, where the locals don their Bavarian costumes and yodel a lot. If Enrico explained why Oktoberfest occurred in September, I have completely forgotten it. That’s what happens when you write a post months after a trip occurred!
The beer labels at this brewery were quite interesting
Next stop was the lovely little town of Rostock, formerly part of East Germany. Enrico told us that on November 9, 1989, the citizens of Rostock danced on the wall in celebration of the peaceful revolution. Germans commemorate October 3rd, 1990 as their reunification date, with a festival at the Brandenburg Gate.
We didn’t see the Brandenburg Gate on THIS trip, but we DID see Rostock’s Stone Gate.
Enrico pointed out that there are no pigeons hanging out in this particular tower. The reason? The bricks were drenched with bulls’ blood. Why that makes a difference, I don’t know. I also don’t know whether cow’s blood–or any other animal’s blood would also do the trick. After my beer breakfast, my mind wasn’t sharp enough to ask such insightful questions.
Other highlights of Rostock were its public University
Its lovely town square, surrounded by beautiful medieval buildings,
and playful fountains.
The Germans, like many Europeans, have a more open attitude about bodies and sexuality, as demonstrated by this bench in the fountain. (Yes indeed, it was IN the fountain)
What better way to follow up our time by the fountain than with a visit to St. Mary’s Church? Construction of this church initially took place in the 13th century, with renovations and restorations repairing subsequent damage that war and religious differences wreaked.
We were fortunate to have a guide who is getting his degree in education. And what a wonderful teacher he will be. He shared information about German culture and society. Food in German is inexpensive, education is free and health care is free. The state pays 185 Euros per child per month to parents. All this is funded by a 35% income tax, with additional funding from taxes generated by exports.
One of the advantages of travel is learning how different societies address their problems. Enrico’s thesis is on what he termed America’s fascination with guns. As a contrast, he explained that 95% of the German police never fire their guns during their entire career. When they do, they aim for the culprit’s leg.
Our return to Warnemunde was via a ferry. Although the weather wasn’t the best, we wandered around this little seaside town, enjoying the sights.
The best part of our decision to stay local was we had the rest of the afternoon to enjoy the beautiful Viking ship. We were welcomed back with open arms, and with glasses of champagne.
Another bonus? It was easy to get a reservation at The Chef’s Table, our favorite specialty restaurant.
Okay, just ONE food photo. This first of five courses, beef carpaccio, gives you an idea of the artistry of the Chef’s Table’s offerings. And yes, that red goblet by the plate is indeed a paired wine.
Because we weren’t exhausted from a long trip to Berlin, we had enough energy to visit Torshaven, Viking’s cozy little nightclub. Here’s the band belting out some Gloria Estevan songs that they learned at the request of our friend, Jeanne.
My last post about Tibet was a bit of a downer, wasn’t it? As my friend Sally reminded me, “not every place is lovable”, but as with all travel, there are always positive elements, whether it be a greater understanding of a particular culture or country, or an increase in self knowledge.
We not only saw the exterior of the iconic Potala Palace, we were also able to climb to the top and visit some of the interior on our way up. Built by the fifth Dalai Lama in the late 1600’s on the site of Songzen Gampo’s palace, it became the winter residence of successive Dalai Lamas. Photographs are not allowed of any of the interior rooms, but they were so dark, smoky and gloomy, it would have been difficult to get a good shot anyway.
The palace, 13 stories high, offers a great view of the city of Lhasa.
Here’s a different view, showing the modern city the Chinese have built around the Potala.
It was so hard to imagine a small child being taken from his family and brought to live in this massive place, surrounded by monks who were charged with his instruction. The current Dalai Lama was two years old when he was identified. He spent two years in a monastery near his family’s home in Amdo, then moved to the Potala two years later.
The summer palace, the Norbulingkha (Treasure Park) has a very different feel to it. This was built in the mid 18th century by the 7th Dalai Lama. It is actually quite close to the winter palace. The largest horticultural park in Tibet, it includes a private zoo, which wasn’t open when I visited. At one time it housed an elephant that was a gift from the Maharaja of Nepal.
Heinrich Harrer conducted lessons with the 14th (current) Dalai Lama in the summer palace. It was from this site that the Dalai Lama departed in 1959 to escape from the Chinese. Another fun fact: According to Harrer in his book “Seven Years in Tibet”, women were not allowed in the Norbulingkha because it was believed that they would have defiled the gardens.
Two famous monasteries in Lhasa are located near the palaces. The Drepung monastery was being repaired, so we only visited the Sera Monastery. I was disappointed because I had learned in my pre trip reading that Tibet’s creation story was told in murals at the entrance of the Drepung Monastery, and I had hoped to see it.
What we DID see were the Sera monks interacting in an outdoor courtyard. That yellow hats on their shoulders? It made me smile–all I could think of was Woodstock, Snoopy’s little friend.
The detail on the exterior of the buildings was exquisite, however it was nothing compared to the tombs of the Dalai Lamas inside the Potala. Those looked like wedding cakes–5 to 7 tiers high, covered with carvings and encrusted with jewels and precious stones.
We arrived in Lhasa on 5/14, which was the start of a 15 day “festival” celebrating Buddha’s birthday. For Tibetans, a festival consisted of either walking around a sacred site, or prostrating themselves as they slowly made their way counterclockwise, praying as they went.
Leaving Lhasa, we traveled to Gyantse, where we visited the Palcho Monastery.
Here, you were allowed to take photos, as long as you paid a fee. In the distance, you can see the red fort that dominates the landscape.
This monastery was built in the 1400’s; its interior looks very much like the interiors of the other monasteries, small chapels, very dark and smoky. I used a flash and the highest ISO possible to get these photos.
The other special feature of the Palcho monastery is the Kumbum Podang. (Don’t you love the name?) A Kumbum is a stupa that is also a three-dimensional mandala. The first five floors of this structure are square and the remaining four are circular.
Unfortunately, this building was also being repaired so we were unable to go inside, but according to Wikipedia, it has 76 chapels and shrines and is also known as the Ten Thousand Buddha Pagodas. Why? Because it contains ten thousand images and murals of Buddhas.
Gyantse is also notable because in 1904, the town and monastery were attacked by the British, led by Francis Younghusband. The Tibetans were armed with outdated weapons, but they had been assured by their religious leaders that their victory was preordained. In addition to their weapons, they were protected by talismans that they thought would repel bullets. They were mowed down, and the buildings were shelled.
In 1959, the Chinese attacked the complex and it was also damaged during the cultural revolution.
After one night in Gyantse, we traveled to Shigatse, Tibet’s second largest city and the location of the Tashilhunpo Monastery. This monastery has been the home of the Pachen Lama, the great scholar, and is where most of the prior Pachen Lamas are entombed.
This photo was taken in Gyantse–no interior photos were allowed in Tashilhunpo. The top photo is of the 10th Pachen Lama and the bottom is of the current (11th) as a child.
The 10th Pachen Lama was taken to China as a child to be educated. Although he initially supported the Chinese incursion into Tibet, after returning home and seeing the impact on his country, he began to speak out. This resulted in his being tortured and imprisoned in China for 16 years. After his release, he married a Han woman, had a child and returned to Tibet. He died suddenly in 1989, at the age of 51 shortly after giving a speech critical of the Chinese government. His resting place is an amazingly beautiful tomb, with gold carvings and jewels, similar to that of Dalai Lamas in the Potala.
There was considerable controversy over the selection of the 11th Pachen Lama. The Dalai Lama’s choice disappeared after being named and the Pachen Lama chosen by the Chinese, now in his 20’s, is still being educated in China.
Because we were in Shigatse for two days, we were able to wander through the city on our own. Marilynn, my energetic buddy, and I climbed to the Shigatse fort that overlooked the city.
For some reason, the ride back seemed far more pleasant than the ride to the two cities. Perhaps it was because we traveled back along the river or maybe it was because we knew what to expect for toilet facilities?
After Shigatse, it was back to Lhasa for our return to our gorgeous hotel in Nepal, the Gokarna Forest Resort. Great food, margaritas, beautiful surroundings, greeted by our wonderful Nepali guide Binoy– we were SO very glad to be back in Kathmandu!
I’ve been home for a little more than a week. It took almost that long to get back to normal after seven days in Tibet.
I expected to love Tibet. I WANTED to love Tibet. Sadly, very sadly, I didn’t.
Have I turned into an “ugly American”, critical of a country when it isn’t like home? I certainly hope not.
It is entirely possible that I was spoiled by the fantastic guides and the wonderful experiences we had in Bhutan and Nepal, and expected more of the same. Or maybe it was because for the first three days in Lhasa, I was fighting a cold and the Tibetan’s version of Montezuma’s revenge, adjusting to the altitude and possibly reacting to the Diamox I’d taken for altitude sickness. Whatever it was, I was not feeling great. I missed two afternoons of sightseeing in Lhasa so I could sleep my way to feeling better.
Although I had read up on Tibet and had checked the Overseas Adventure Forum before booking the trip, there were still a few surprises. After much soul searching, I’ve uncovered what might have influenced my feelings about Tibet, AND am offering some tips so that future travelers might make their experience more enjoyable.
The China Factor Knowing that China had taken over Tibet was not the same as experiencing the impact of that takeover. This is the closest I’ve ever come to being in a police state. Those two white objects on the dashboard are cameras–one pointed inward so the police could monitor what was going on in our van whenever they wanted.
And yes, that IS a military convoy, in front of us, hauling big guns. Although you can’t see it in the photo, in every truck, two soldiers were pointing their weapons out the back. I was very grateful the road wasn’t bumpy!
Although the hotel in Lhasa offered free wifi, we quickly discovered that google, yahoo, safari, the New York Times, and many email accounts were blocked by the Chinese government.
Being under constant surveillance has to have an impact on the psyche of the population, and I believe it did. Unlike Bhutan and Nepal, the people in Tibet didn’t seem as interested in interacting with tourists. Or maybe they were afraid.
Tip: If it is important to stay in contact with family back home, set up a hotmail account. For some reason, that email service wasn’t blocked. Also, texting works. My iPhone allowed me to send free “imessages”!
Altitude and Air The air is very dry because of the altitude and very smoky from cigarettes and incense. Everyone smokes everywhere–in the hotels, restaurants, on the street. It was like being trapped in a Mad Men episode, but with different costumes. You can request a non-smoking hotel room, but there is no guarantee that you will get anything other than a smoking room sprayed with air freshener.
If the cigarette smoke doesn’t get you, then the incense and Yak butter candles in the temples will.
At times, inside the temples and monasteries, I found it challenging to breathe.
And if you think stepping outside to breathe in fresh air would help, think again. These little chimneys for burning incense are everywhere!
Tip: The 5th floor of the Xin Ding Hotel is the only nonsmoking floor. The other hotels don’t have that option, but 4 of the 7 nights are spent in the Xin Ding, so it is worth it to request a room on the 5th floor. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a wonderful view of the Potala from your room.
The hotel makes sure you can buy whatever you need without leaving the comfort of your room: toothpaste, manicure tools, condoms, mysterious things in plastic bags with Chinese writing on the front…
Long Drives in a Small Van over a Barren Landscape
Fortunately, no one in the group was very large. At 5’8″, I was the tallest. If my 6’3″ husband had been with us, the 8 hour drives from and to Lhasa would have been quite uncomfortable for him.
But the size of the van wasn’t the problem. No, the challenge was the lack of bathroom facilities along the way. Not only that, but we quickly discovered that squat toilets were the only option. The good news? You never had to ask for directions. All you had to do was follow your nose. Another plus? Many of them had no stalls or partitions, so you could make new friends while emptying your bladder. Let me tell you, it was much more pleasant to look at my neighbor’s backside than to look down at what had taken place before I arrived.
It didn’t take long for me to decide that a bush, a rock or a tree was far preferable to the few roadside bathroom facilities. Did I mention that I was drinking more water than usual because of my cold, the dry air and the altitude medication? Those were LOOONG drives!
Tip: Tiger Balm or Vicks applied under your nose blocks out all other smells. Unfortunately, I had neither with me. Women need to practice their squats before embarking on this trip!
The landscape on the drive to Gyantse was rather stark.
Our guide had to stop at multiple police check points along the way to show our passports and to complete paperwork, and to have our speed monitored. I didn’t think that was a bad thing, given the narrow winding mountain roads, but Marilynn disagreed. When our driver and guide took a cigarette break, leaving the keys in the van, she offered to take over and get us to the hotel in record time!
Here are the notable sights during our 8 hour drive to Gyantse.
Farmers, plowing with their yaks
Prayer flags looked very different from the ones we saw in Bhutan.
One of the two passes.
Tip: My iPod was my salvation; our guide and driver talked to each other in Tibetan for much of the way, so I was grateful I could plug in and listen to music instead.
Tibet has many wonderful myths and legends; I was looking forward to hearing our guide elaborate and offer the local version of the stories I’d read. Unfortunately, he either was not allowed to relate them to us, or perhaps during the 50+ years since China invaded, the legends stopped being passed along. He certainly couldn’t access Wikipedia to supplement his knowledge!
For example, our guide told us this unspectacular pile of rocks is Mt. Kalish. According to Google, Mt. Kalish is located in a very remote part of Tibet, and is visually spectacular. That “mountain” was neither. But Tibetans do circumambulate its perimeter, and it has been the locale for “sky burials”. (A few days after someone dies, the body is cut up, brought to the mountain top and left for the vultures to consume, thereby completing the circle of life.)
I had hoped to learn more about the Goddess that was transformed into Yamtrok Lake, but once again, our guide wasn’t able to elaborate, so here’s what I learned from my reading. After arguing with her husband, a goddess decided to leave him forever by turning herself into a lake. Boats are not allowed on Yamtrok because the vessel would slice her skin. I also learned that Tibetans believe if the Lake ever goes dry, all Tibetans will perish.
After returning home, I turned to Google, where I discovered that senior monks go to Yamtrok Lake after the Dalai Lama’s death. They throw sacred objects into the lake, then watch for a reflection that will tell them where to find the next (reincarnated) Dalai Lama.
Tip: Learn everything you can about the culture and myths before coming to Tibet. The information the guide imparts could be very limited.
You don’t travel to Tibet for the food. There is a reason Tibetan restaurants aren’t popping up in major cities, still, we had hoped for great Chinese food. Two of our group were born in Hong Kong, spoke and read fluent Mandarin. They were not fans of the cuisine.
Be prepared for very basic meals, with no snacks in between. There isn’t much fruit, however I discovered that you CAN buy bananas.
Tip: I had brought granola bars, but shared them with the other travelers during our long rides in Bhutan and Nepal. By the time we reached Tibet, my stash was gone. Big mistake. It’s a good idea to bring packaged snacks.
For me, interacting with the locals, especially children, is always a high point of my trips. Unlike in Bhutan and Nepal, opportunities to interact were limited.
While in Shigatse, I spent our two free afternoons wandering through the city. I was taking photos of the street when I was accosted by an old man with a walking stick in one hand and a prayer wheel in the other.
He was yelling at me, and for a moment I was afraid he was going to hit me. He apparently thought I had photographed him–although the truth was I didn’t even notice him. I was more interested in the goods on the sidewalk. End result? There are no photos of Tibetan people.
But I didn’t let that one unfortunate incident keep me from trying to interact with the locals.
I had learned to say “Tra-shi-de-lay”, which is close enough to the Tibetan greeting to occasionally get a smile.
During my second afternoon purchasing bananas, I noticed a Tibetan trying to take a picture of me with her cell phone, so I posed for her. Out of the corner of my eye, I caught a young man attempting to get into the photo, so I turned, threw my arms around his neck and put my cheek next to him. And the crowd went wild! Not only that, but I got my bananas for half of what I had paid the day before. Sorry, no photos of that exchange because I had left MY camera back in the room. I didn’t want to take a chance of being smote with a stick!
Tip: Learn a couple of Tibetan words, smile and see if you can make a connection.
That’s all for today. Next post will be more upbeat, I promise. There will be photos of what made the trip special.