What a way to go!

We had to be at Hue’s airport by noon, so we started our morning early, with a boat ride up the Perfume River to visit the Beautiful Lady Pagoda and two of the Mausoleums.

Which dragon boat will be ours?
Which dragon boat will be ours?
Since we are the only passengers, we can sit anywhere we want.
Since we are the only passengers, we can sit anywhere we want.

The lady of the boat was also in charge of the “gift shop”. She’s very happy because I overpaid for a couple of items. Even Buddha is laughing at me! But she is pregnant, so I don’t feel bad about contributing to her unborn child’s well being.
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At one time, each of the seven layers in the tower contained a gold Buddha statue, but overtime, they all disappeared.

Thien Mu Pagoda
Tower at Thien Mu Pagoda

Also on site is the car that was used to drive Thich Tri Quang, the monk that set himself on fire in Saigon. He was protesting the persecution of the Buddhists by the South Vietnamese Catholics, led by Diem.
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Once again, I learned that I can’t leave Mike alone.

Everywhere he goes, Mike attracts attention!
Everywhere he goes, Mike attracts attention!

This guy attracted MY attention.

Yes, those eyebrows and that beard ARE made of real hair
Yes, those eyebrows and that beard ARE made of real hair

The ruling class did not suffer from low self esteem, as evidenced by their mausoleums. No humble hole in the ground for them. Their mausoleums also functioned as parks; they were so lovely the emperors used to spend time there while still alive.
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There are seven levels, and 127 steep steps to the top.
There are seven levels, and 127 steep steps to the top.

Bao Dai, the “playboy” emperor, abdicated in 1945, but before he left, he constructed this tomb to honor his father, Khai Dinh. It was quite dazzling, with all the gold.

Life sized statue of Khai Dinh
Life sized statue of Khai Dinh

But one statue is never enough.
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The queen’s photo hangs on the top level. She doesn’t look very happy, but then, neither would I if Mike had scores of concubines.
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I know that if “my girls” had been with me, THEY would have put on a costume and sat on the throne for me to photograph. Mike was not as cooperative, so I had to make do.
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Time to leave for Hue’s airport. There are no jetways, so we walked down a flight of stairs, to the outside, where we boarded a bus that drove about 100 feet to the plane for our flight to Hanoi.

Yep, we DID ride that bus all the way to the plane.
Yep, we DID ride that bus all the way to the plane.

The Citadel

As befitting the one time capital of Vietnam, Hue has a citadel, complete with a couple of moats, cannons and majestic gates with names like Gate of Everlasting Happiness.

If this isn't the Gate of Everlasting Happiness, it SHOULD be.
If this isn’t the Gate of Everlasting Happiness, it SHOULD be.
Gate detail. The Vietnamese are descendants of dragons and fairies
Gate detail. According to legend, the Vietnamese are descendants of dragons and fairies

We’ve all seen cannons, so you don’t need to see the whole thing, but I’ll bet you’ve never seen cannons as fancy as the ones at Hue.

The Vietnamese are incredible craftsmen. This is one of the "four seasons" guns.
The Vietnamese are incredible craftsmen. This is one of the “four seasons” guns.

The emperor lived in the Forbidden Purple City with his wives, concubines, daughters, young sons and female servants. If any male, other than the emperor, (or one of the eunuchs) attempted to enter the Purple City, he was put to death. I was quite excited about wandering thru the forbidden city, but unfortunately it was flattened during the Tet offensive or America’s response. Nothing remains of the emperor’s residence.

You'll just have to use your imagination to conjure up the Forbidden City. Here is where it stood.
You’ll just have to use your imagination to conjure up the Forbidden City. Here is where it stood.

These galleries of Hue’s citadel have been restored and give you an idea of the glorious days of old.

Restored gallery
Restored gallery

Our tour guide had gone to college in Hue, so he was full of great restaurant and bar restaurants. Instead Mike and I opted to have a wonderful dinner on the rooftop restaurant of our hotel, enjoying the perfect weather and the beautiful view.

The view of the Perfume River from our room
The view of the Perfume River from our room

Speaking of our room, I’m not sure why the Mercure Hotel thinks showering is a spectator sport. Both of the Mercure Hotels had a “viewing” option. See what I mean?

This might have been a good idea 30 years ago...
This might have been a good idea 30 years ago…

One more day of our private tour, a day in Hanoi, then I’ll be telling you all about my Global Volunteers experience.

And now, the moment you’ve been waiting for–the answers to the last contest’s questions
1. We visited Halong Bay on this trip. Although Angkor Wat IS indeed a wonder of the world, it is man made, not a natural wonder.
2. Early in the morning, in Luang Prabang, the monks beg for their food.
3. The best way to tour Hanoi’s old quarter is a matter of opinion. Both Cyclo and on foot are correct, and yes, Lis, this was a trick question!
4. This question was specially for Kristy because of her fondness for the dong. The answer is Vietnam.
5. I lost my glasses once, but was able to retrieve them, because I remembered where I had left them–but Mike and his hat have parted ways for good.
6. The GI’s called the beach at DaNang “China Beach” because of all the porcelain they found there.

On our way to Hue

We drove through the mountains from HaiAn to Hue, a very beautiful ride up a narrow, winding road. There was no place to stop to take photos, and the blurry shots from the car immediately were deleted. When we got to the top, the view was spectacular, but too misty to capture in a photo. This mountaintop was at different times a fortress/ bunker for the Vietnamese (fighting the Chinese), the French and the Americans.

Vietnamese fortress
Vietnamese fortress
French bunker
French bunker
American bunker
American bunker

You’ll have to look carefully to see the American bunker above all the gift shops and buses.

What the area looks like today
What the area looks like today
This photo is for John R. I don't know whether this is the area you were asking about.
This photo probably only means something to my friend, John Reilly

It made me sad to think of all the American and Vietnamese lives lost or ruined by this senseless war. Amazingly enough, the Vietnamese don’t hold a grudge against us. They are very matter of fact about the war. We have been impressed by how tremendously polite, welcoming and gracious everyone has been to us.
As we descended the mountain, we were treated to a different, but equally fantastic view.

Lang Co Beach
Lang Co Beach

This time I wore a more “wind resistant” skirt!

Well, if I can put my feet into the Antarctic Ocean, you can bet I won't miss stepping into the East Sea
Well, if I can put my feet into the Antarctic Ocean, you can bet I won’t miss stepping into the East Sea

Two more photos of our drive and then I’ll give your eyes a rest.
Women working in the rice paddies
Women working in the rice paddies

Vietnamese fishing boats (for my dad)
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HoiAn, a beautiful little town

Mike and I thoroughly enjoyed our unstructured time in HoiAn. Our Road Scholar trip was action packed, with lots of sightseeing, cultural and educational experiences, starting early in the morning till early evening, so we were ready for some “down time”.

It was nice to linger over breakfast, which we did every morning, for about two hours, chatting with another American couple, enjoying the hotel gardens and the wonderful warm weather. And what breakfasts they were…just about everything imaginable…Asian style food (more like what we would eat for dinner), crepes, omelettes, croissants, and the juiciest, freshest fruits I have ever tasted. I think I have a mango addiction.

HoiAn is a delightful city, with the central section full of little shops, restaurants and cafes. It was closed off to motorbikes and cars, so it is a pleasure walking there. Mike and I did some of the usual tourist things, but mainly we walked around, ate and drank. Good thing everything I brought with me had an elastic waistband!

I couldn’t resist shopping for my three “shared” grandchildren–there were such cute purses and backpacks. I also succumbed to one of HoiAn’s many tailor shops. I think I would have fared better if I had had my fashion consultants with me, but hey, it was an experience and entertainment. (Isn’t that what the gamblers say after being in Atlantic City?). There will be a fashion show when I get home–you all can be the judges as to whether I am “in or owwwwwttt”.

Me and super saleswoman Lou, while waiting for my new duds to be finished.
Me and super saleswoman Lou, while waiting for my new duds to be finished.

The temple was packed the day we visited, with the locals stopping by to purchase long red coils of incense that will slowly burn for several months. The yellow tags hanging from the incense have the family members’ names printed on them. I said a special prayer in front of this painting, asking the Sea Goddess to always keep Steve and Andrew safe.

Painting of the sea goddess, under the incense coils and behind the vase.
Painting of the sea goddess, rescuing the ship in distress. I so wanted to move that vase.

I have no idea what this is all about...I just liked it!
I have no idea what this is all about…I just liked it!

Sitting by the river, watching the boats roll on by
Sitting by the river, watching the boats roll on by

A Bloody Mary toast for all the girls!
A Bloody Mary toast for all the girls!

We took a day trip out to the Cham sanctuary, My Son. A significant portion of the sanctuary was destroyed by bombing. I climbed into one of the craters to give an idea of the depth of the hole, but that photo is on Mike’s camera.

Not this crater--there was water in the bottom.
Not this crater–there was water in the bottom.

The area was beautiful, and so peaceful.
The woods around My Son
The woods around My Son

Our guide was a photo enthusiast, who enjoyed using our cameras to take photos of us.
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At night, the bridges and streets are all lit up, and young children sell candles that you float on the river. If you buy one, “your family be very happy”. (So, family, are you? You better be, cuz I bought one! That photo is also on Mike’s camera, but here’s a daytime shot of one of the bridges.)
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It’s about time for a few questions, don’t you think?
1. Which of the seven new natural wonders of the world did we visit on this trip?
2. Early in the morning, in Luang Prabang, what can you watch the monks doing?
3. The best way to tour Hanoi’s old quarter is
A. By watching a travel video
B. By bus
C. On a cyclo
D. On foot
4. In which country is the currency known as a dong?
5. Who do you think PERMANENTLY lost an object?
A. Mike lost his hat
B. Shelley lost her glasses?
6. Why did the GI’s call the beach at DaNang “China Beach”?

Next stop, HoiAn

After our Road Scholar trip ended, Mike and I started Part Three of our Asian Adventure, this time just the two of us, traveling through Central Vietnam with a guide and driver, arranged by Ann Tours.

We flew from Hanoi to DaNang, where our guide Ahn met us. Although the buses were comfortable, and air conditioned, it still felt rather luxurious to have a Mercedes all to ourselves.

What remains of the former US airbase at DaNang
What remains of the former US airbase at DaNang
Modern DaNang, with its new bright yellow serpent bridges.
Modern DaNang, with its new bright yellow serpent bridges.

The Cham Museum contains sculptures from My Son, a religious sanctuary dating back to the 4th century. When an area was conquered, the invaders cut off the heads and hands of the religious statues to decrease their power.

Lakshmi's hands were originally holding a lotus blossom
Lakshmi’s hands were originally holding a lotus blossom

But more interesting to me was this frieze, showing the art of massage dated back more than 1600 years in Central Vietnam.

I can't let all those years of expertise go to waste.  There will be a massage in my future!
I can’t let all those years of expertise go to waste. There will be a massage in my future!

We made a quick stop at DaNang’s beach, better known by the American soldiers as China Beach because of all the porcelain found buried in the sand. Here’s one of the few “G” rated photos from that stop.

"China" Beach
“China” Beach

Last stop before HoiAn was in the Marble Mountains. We climbed well over 100 steps that were carved into the mountain, all with different sized steps (steep, steeper, steepest).

The lady in blue decided I would make a dandy handrail, so she grabbed onto me as she climbed down
The lady in blue decided I would make a dandy handrail, so she grabbed onto me as she climbed down
At the top of the first "staircase", smiling Buddha (happiness), with a fat belly (prosperity) and long ears (longevity)
At the top of the first “staircase”, smiling Buddha (happiness), with a fat belly (prosperity) and long ears (longevity)was waiting to welcome us.

As we climbed higher, the view got better.
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But the most awe inspiring experience was when we entered the huge cave.

Sunlight from holes in the roof of the cave gave the interior a very spiritual feel
Sunlight from holes in the roof of the cave gave the interior a very spiritual feel

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Our hotel was fantastic–my very favorite of the entire trip.

Welcome drink and fruit at the HaAn Hotel
Welcome drink and fruit at the HaAn Hotel

Yes, those are rose petals on the bed
Yes, those are rose petals on the bed

Check out the shower. You can see the plants hanging on the back wall if you look in the mirror. And yes, there were flowers scattered at the bases of the shower and the toilet.
Stones in the shower.  You stand on that white platform under the shower head.
Stones in the shower. You stand on that white platform under the shower head.

Our tour company booked us here for three nights. Great choice!

Why I Love Road Scholar!

Mike and I are now traveling on our own, after our whirlwind tour with Road Scholar, through Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. And what a tour it was!
My blog couldn’t keep pace with our activities and even now, this summary will only provide a taste of those incredible 20 days.
Here are a few of the many reasons I love Road Scholar.

SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE
Road Scholar made contributions on our behalf to the two village schools and hospital we visited.

One nurse per 500 children at the outpatient clinic of this free hospital
One nurse per 500 children at the outpatient clinic of this free hospital
Look who else visited the hospital--but not while we were there.
Look who else visited the hospital–but not while we were there.

While traveling in Cambodia a few years ago, the Spitlers asked their guide to suggest a worthwhile project. The end result was this village school.
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Sarin, a Cambodian tour guide, and head of the Spitler School
Sarin, Cambodian tour guide, and head of the Spitler School

Prior to the Spitler School, children in this village had no opportunity for education.
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Yes, we were captivated.
Yes, we were captivated.

JAW DROPPING EXPERIENCES

Mike, taking in the majesty of Angkor Wat
Mike, taking in the majesty of Angkor Wat
The demons guarding the bridge to Angkor Thom
The demons guarding the bridge to Angkor Thom
One of the many faces of King  Jayavarman 7
One of the many faces of King Jayavarman 7
Good guys on the left, demons on the right, churning the sea of milk
Good guys on the left, demons on the right, churning the sea of milk with Jayavarman 7 gazing down on it all

And of course, the many Buddha images in Laos and Thailand were unforgettable and impressive.
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WONDERFUL LECTURES

Tony Zola, another former Peace Corp volunteer who settled in Asia, was a fascinating lecturer.  He spoke to us in Thailand and Laos.
Tony Zola, another former Peace Corp volunteer who settled in Asia, was a fascinating lecturer. He spoke to us in Thailand and Laos.
Tara (an American)and a local Lao woman created the Museum of  Art and Ethnology.
Tara (an American)and a local Lao woman created the Museum of Art and Ethnology.
We had an amazing lunch at Fabian's stilt home in a  Laotian village, followed by a lecture.
We had an amazing lunch at Fabian’s stilt home in a Laotian village, followed by a lecture.

GREAT COMPANIONS
Fantastic experiences are even better when shared with like minded companions.
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The jungle temple
The jungle temple
Showing off our Baci Ceremony stringe
Showing off our Baci Ceremony strings

CULTURAL IMMERSION

Elephant Camp
Elephant Camp
Water Puppet Show
Hanoi Water Puppet Show
Lanna dance
Lanna dance
Ancient musical instruments.  That IS an elephant carved on the end of that bow
Ancient musical instruments. That IS an elephant carved on the end of that bow
One of the marriage stories in the museum of Art and Ethnology
One of the marriage stories in the museum of Art and Ethnology
From night markets...
From night markets…
To rice paddies, we saw it all
To rice paddies, we saw it all

BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE
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INCREDIBLE FOOD
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Judging from their rounded bellies, I think these apsaras just finished a Road Scholar trip!
Judging from their rounded bellies, I think these apsaras just finished a Road Scholar trip!

I’ll give your eyeballs a rest, and stop with the photos.
You’ll just have to take my word for it, this trip was AMAZING!

Halong Bay

For this post, the pictures will (mainly) speak for themselves.
HaLong Bay is about 4 hours by bus north of Hanoi.image

I think the ballot box may have been stuffed for some of these choices, but Halong Bay definitely deserves to be on the list of Natural Wonders.
I think the ballot box may have been stuffed for some of these choices, but Halong Bay definitely deserves to be on the list.
The surrounding area is starting to get built up, with lots of hotels across from the beach.
The surrounding area is starting to get built up, with lots of hotels across from the beach.
We, however, spent the night on the Emeraude.
We, however, spent the night on the Emeraude.
Take a good look.  Can you find the shower?
Take a good look. Can you find the shower? What about the “closet”?
Great views from the top deck (and the middle and  the lower decks)
Great views from the top deck (and the middle and the lower decks)but the top deck has the bar!

I didn't expect penguins in Vietnam
I didn’t expect penguins in Vietnam

Or monkeys...
Or monkeys…
My sister Sue always wanted a pet monkey.  I tried to convince this one to come home with me.
My sister Sue always wanted a pet monkey. I tried to convince this one to come home with me. Check out her facial expression for her answer.

We took a tender to the Surprise Cave.  The third cave was enormous!
We took a tender to the Surprise Cave. The third cave was enormous!

We climbed over 100 steps (I lost count) to an opening that gave us this wonderful vantage point.

I couldn't resist posting two shots--one framed,one not. You get to choose which you prefer.
I couldn’t resist posting two shots–one framed,one not. You get to choose which you prefer.

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These ladies were waiting for us to return to the ship so they could sell us some of their handmade goods.
These ladies were waiting for us to return to the ship so they could sell us some of their handmade goods.

How lucky were we, to see night fall on Halong Bay
How lucky were we, to see night fall on Halong Bay

And with an almost full moon.my photos don't do it justice.
And with an almost full moon. My photos don’t do it justice.
Sunrise on the bay
Sunrise on the bay
East coast girl, hanging out, enjoying the view.
East coast girl, hanging out, enjoying the view.
We cruised for a while, enjoying the effect the changing light had on the seascape (bayscape?)
We cruised for a while, enjoying the effect the changing light had on the seascape (bayscape?)
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Time to return to Hanoi for our farewell dinner and the end of this phase of our Asian Adventure.
Time to return to Hanoi for our farewell dinner and the end of this phase of our Asian Adventure.

Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride

The elephant ride in Thailand was tame, compared to our cyclo excursion through Hanoi’s old quarter. Imagine 22 of us oldies but goodies being pedaled through narrow crowded, crooked streets. Actually, you don’t have to imagine, because through the magic of digital photography, we captured this thrilling adventure for you.

One of my Pennsylvania buddies was right in front of me, so I was able to get a couple of shots of her, and she returned the favor.

Linda, relaxed and happy at the start of the ride.
Linda, relaxed and happy at the start of the ride.

Linda, after riding for a few minutes...check out the expression...
Linda, after riding for a few minutes…check out the expression…
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I wasn’t looking behind me, so didn’t see how close the car and motorbike were to my fearless driver.

Photo by Linda
Photo by Linda. Please note. I am wearing the scarf I dyed, and the skirt I purchased at the night market in Laos

Mike was following close behind.

And mom always thinks he's got more sense than me!
And mom always thinks he’s got more sense than me!

It actually was a great way to see the city. I could check out the shops for later purchases. Hmmm, which sister or cousin will be getting something from the “Toxic Shop”? Or would a propaganda poster make a better “prize”?

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One more shot to make sure you got the full effect of Hanoi streets, then we will move on to other highlights.
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You can’t visit Hanoi without paying your respects to Ho Chi Minh.

Ho Chi Minh's embalmed body lies in this mausoleum.
Ho Chi Mihn’s embalmed body lies in this mausoleum.

This French colonial governor’s mansion was very briefly Ho Chi Minh’s home until he was able to settle into something more to his taste.
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This house on stilts was where Ho Chi Minh preferred to live.
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Ho Chi Minh's bedroom
Ho Chi Mihn’s bedroom. Personally, I prefer a sleep number bed.

On to the Temple of Literature, which was beautifully decorated for New Year. Like many Americans, they are not in a big rush to take down their decorations, giving the Temple an even more festive look.
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The Vietnamese do amazing things with flowers and plants
The Vietnamese do amazing things with flowers and plants

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Turtles are VERY important to the Vietnamese. Unfortunately, I was in the “happy” room when our guide was explaining the significance of these turtle sculptures, so I missed that part, but I know it had to do with education. Google it, if you want specifics–or you can just enjoy the photos.
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We have an early morning tomorrow, so that’s all for today. Hugs to all and a big hello to all Sue’s co-workers. Glad you are following along!

One day you’re hot, and the next day you’re not.

We spent our last morning in Cambodia cruising to the Tonle Sap Lake. During the dry season, the tributaries leading to the lake drop to a depth between 3 and 5 feet, but during the rainy season, the area floods, with the water level rising to between 24 and 30 feet, which explains why the houses are on stilts.

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The children were all very cute and friendly, waving from the banks.
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These tykes were too close to the river for MY comfort level.
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It was slow going, getting to the lake, because we were quite a bit larger than the average Cambodian (an understatement), weighing the boat down in the already shallow passageway. That gave us plenty of time to take in the sights.

A fish farm
A fish farm

The bathroom
The bathroom

As usual, our excellent guide took good care of us, bringing along more snacks than we could eat. I’ve developed a very strong attachment to mangosteens, which are rightfully known as “the queen of fruits”.
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Tonle Sap Lake was quite beautiful. I particularly liked the floating restaurants.
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On the way back, Man tossed fruit and snacks to the kids. This little boy was delighted with his catch.
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Time to move — to another country and another climate. North Vietnam is quite a bit cooler than the other three countries we visited, as you might guess from our wardrobe.

"Well, east coast girls are hip, I really dig those styles they wear". -- the Beach Boys
“Well, east coast girls are hip, I really dig those styles they wear”. — the Beach Boys

And now a preview of coming attractions…tune in again for the Hanoi version of “Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride”.

Random Images

Jean requested that I post more photos of Mike and me. Mike’s photo card isn’t compatible with my iPad, I can’t get at his photos till I am home. Some other travelers were kind enough to get a few shots of us together. So Jean, these are for you.

After dinner...full bellies and big smiles (or is "big smiles and even bigger bellies" a bit more accurate?
After dinner…full bellies and big smiles or is “big smiles and even bigger bellies” a bit more accurate?

At Banteay Srei, the Temple of the Women
At Banteay Srei, the Temple of the Women

Mike, looking thoughtful.
My Valentine...
My Valentine…

Time for group shots:
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Our wonderful guide made sure we had front row seats for the Angkor Wat sunrise
Our wonderful guide made sure we had front row seats for the Angkor Wat sunrise

I DID promise random shots, so here goes. This is the walkway leading to the “laundry” less than a block from the Tara Angkor Hotel. For $12 we got two weeks worth of dirty clothes washed and folded. You might wonder where, because all that is visible are soda cans and umbrellas, which explains why I walked by the place twice. The laundry, you see,is also a cafe. These Cambodians are hard working AND ingenious.

The "bridge" didn't look all that sturdy, but fortunately, the stream wasn't very deep.
The “bridge” didn’t look all that sturdy, but fortunately, the stream wasn’t very deep.

Lest you think the hotel is equally rustic, let me show you the elegance of this gorgeous hotel. Seven of us ladies, and Mike, sipped our gin and tonics in this locale.
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The pool had a Goldilocks temperature…not too hot, not too cold–just right. So refreshing!
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Now for your viewing pleasure, the Southeast Asia version of “Planes, trains and automobiles”

Al is a tad too tall for the tuk tuk
Al is a tad too tall for the tuk tuk
Our chariot to and from Laos.
Our chariot to and from Laos.
Comfortable AND decorative buses
Our guide, Mr Long, in our very comfortable AND decorative bus

I tried several times to send Hal and Karen this photo via email. Maybe the post will succeed. Well, this WAS a mode of travel.

My Canadian friends
My Canadian friends

So far, we’ve had two trips on the Mighty Mekong. The first was in Laos, to the caves.
Those ARE recycled car seats that we a sitting on!
Those ARE recycled car seats that we are sitting on!

The second trip, in Cambodia, was quite an experience because the water level was so low, and the water was extremely muddy.

Beautiful, friendly children were all along the river.
Beautiful, friendly children were all along the river.

No, our boat went QUITE like those on the bank. THIS was our boat.
Enthusiastic photographers
Enthusiastic photographers

Next stop, Vietnam.