Remember learning about the “Dark Ages” in school? Well, come to find out, it wasn’t dark everywhere. In the Muslim world, for instance, the “Golden Ages” is a more apt description. Don’t believe me? Then come to the magnificent Jordan Museum. In addition to archaeological treasures, like Dead Sea Scrolls, the museum has a wonderful short video about the many significant contributions Muslims made to the world during Europe’s dark days, plus several interactive, multi-media displays.
Even if Amman isn’t on your bucket list (although Jordan should be) you can still experience some of the museum’s wonders by visiting this website ( if the link doesn’t work type in 1001inventions.com. )
The Jordan Museum was not part of the OAT tour, however my friend Jeanne and I arrived a day early, so we had free time to explore before we met up with Hisham, our trip leader. My virtual travel buddy, Esther, who I hope to meet in person someday, had highly recommended the Jordan Museum, and I’m so very glad she did.
For those who like antiquities, the first floor has plenty of pottery and jewelry, plus something you don’t see in most museums— Dead Sea Scrolls
The upper floor has the video and the interactive displays that delighted me. Bet you can’t guess what this elephant contraption is.
Believe it or not, this is a replica of an 800 year old clock. “ The large clock uses Greek water-raising technology, an Indian elephant, an Egyptian phoenix, Arabian figures and Chinese dragons, to celebrate the diversity of the world”. ( description courtesy of the website).
The Crowne Plaza Hotel linked us up with Sam, who drove us to the museum, waited for us for over an hour and drove us back, for about $45 total. Best of all, there was no extra charge for Sam’s great commentary, delivered on the way to and from the museum.
Sam, Jeanne and Bobbie
The area around our hotel is definitely NOT conducive to walking, however that didn’t stop Bobbie and me from venturing out for lunch at Kabob Express, where our language barrier resulted in our ordering one lunch instead of two. (It turned out fine, because there was still food left over even after we’d both had our fill). Would I recommend it? Well, it was close to the hotel, they accepted credit cards, you got a lot of satisfying food for your money— and as my dad used to say, “it filled the hole”.
Jeanne, Bobbie and I met the remaining 4 travelers at our dinner, in the hotel restaurant. One of the reasons I enjoy traveling with OAT is the small group size allows you to really get to know your traveling companions, who are usually interesting, curious, friendly and seasoned travelers. This group is certainly all that, and more.
On our tour’s first full day, we visited Amman’s most important sites: the Citadel, which is located atop one of Amman’s seven hills, and the Roman theater; both have on site museums, which we explored.
The sites weren’t crowded at all, so you could take your time perfecting your next instagram post. And believe me, this couple did.
It was easy to get whatever shot you desired, like these fingers and an elbow from what was once a 42 foot statue of Hercules. You can also get a feel for the old section of Amman, which appears in the background.
Check out this great view of the Roman theater from the Citadel. The theater is so large, this was the only way to get all three tiers of it into one shot.
Here at the theater, the preferred photo op was to plop your toddler atop the front pedestal and then give the child directions on exactly how to pose. This little girl was having none of that.
Notice the special seats carved from stone in the first tier, right behind her? Those were the royals’ (Caesar’s) box seats. Way up high, in the nose bleed seats was where the women and slaves were relegated.
So, of course we ladies had to do something about that!
We spent our last day in Amman driving about an hour north to Jerash. Don’t feel bad if you’d never heard of it. Neither had I, before this trip.
Despite having been partially destroyed by the earthquake of 749, it is still one of the best preserved Greco-Roman cities, as interesting as Ephesus to me.
This is normally the high season, with thousands of daily visitors, but because of the fighting between Israel and Hamas, we had the site almost to ourselves. Although I am so sorry for the Jordanian people who make their living in the tourist trade, I am even more sorry for all the Palestinian and Israeli victims of this horrible war.
Hadrian’s Gate, outside of the cityStill a work in progress, these stones are sitting on the ground, waiting to be fitted together. View of the oval forum from one of the templesThe theater, with incredible acoustics brought about by the series of niches. They didn’t need microphonesGood thing because they hadn’t been invented yet.
We will be leaving shortly for our dinner with a Jordanian family in their home. Tomorrow we travel to Petra, stopping at the Dead Sea along the way.
Thanks so much for the words of encouragement from all who commented on my last post, either here, on Facebook or on LinkedIn. It was great to hear from so many friends. I had no idea you were reading my blog, because unless someone comments, I don’t know who my audience is. Your very kind messages motivated me to continue writing about October’s trip.
Yugoslavia was once made up of 6 countries, and on my recent Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) trip, I visited four of them: Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia &Herzegovina and Slovenia. I tell you–we are SO very lucky to be able to travel in the USA for thousands of miles without ever having to show our passport. On this trip, we had multiple border crossings, and although our guides knew the tricks to make it as painless as possible (which crossing was less busy, what time is best to cross), it still was an inconvenience that I’m glad is not part of our daily lives.
After 7 of us finished the pre-trip to Albania, we drove through Montenegro to a parking lot by the border where our Albanian guide said goodbye, and Antonia, our guide for the main trip, greeted us (literally) with open arms. How lucky were we to get this dynamo for our tour leader! She was funny, creative, attentive, and so very joyous. She started out by giving us the good news that we were staying at a different hotel in Dubrovnik, a five star, because our original (4 star) hotel was still being renovated. As the millennials would say, “OMG”! The Valamar President Hotel was truly magnificent–right on the ocean, with spectacular views of the sunset. Here’s an example of one.
Scott and Gretta, two of my favorite fellow travelers. Scott had the foresight to bring a corkscrew and glasses on the bus so that we could enjoy the wine we bought along the way. It made those very long bus trips quite entertaining!
Prior to embarking on the trip, I had googled the original hotel’s location (I know, I’m obsessive/compulsive) and was slightly disappointed because it seemed quite far from the old city. I got over that disappointment real fast, because it was so easy to get to and from our new, improved hotel, (which happened to be in the same area as the original one). We were given a free pass, the buses ran frequently, and we got off right in front of our hotel. By the way, did I mention our hotel was magnificent?
When we arrived at the hotel, we were joined by the 9 remaining members of our group who opted not to take the pre-trip, including my dear friend Augusta.
One of Dubrovnik’s big attractions is walking along the city walls, which we did on our second day in the old town.
It isn’t obvious from this photo, but there was a lot of up and down along the wall, with very uneven steps. But don’t let the following photo dissuade you from exploring the ramparts. One of our fellow travelers, who is in her 80’s, managed to climb up and down without a problem. I found that truly inspiring–and very encouraging for someone who is hoping to be traveling well into HER 80’s. (In case you have’t guessed, that someone would be me).
That evening, dinner was “on our own”. Antonia walked us along a beautiful path that hugged the ocean which was lined with fantastic restaurants, telling us a little about each as we passed. When she said, “This one makes the best gin and tonics in all of Croatia”, Augusta and I knew we had found our place. What made it the best? Not only was the drink served in a beautiful glass, but the creation of it was something to behold. (click on the underlined words if you want to watch our waiter construct that masterpiece).
Dinner by the sea was delightful, and the Croatian sunsets were consistently magnificent.
But the most memorable part of our time in Croatia was the talk given by a woman who had lived in Dubrovnik during the Balkan war. At that time, she was in her early 20’s. Overnight, her life changed. She had been a carefree young woman until, after a night on the town with friends, she was awakened by the sound of bombs dropping. One might expect her talk to have been depressing. It was not. It was actually an inspiring story about the resilience of the Croatian people as they learned how to survive for three months without water and electricity. She told us she quickly learned what was really important, and it wasn’t money. ”What good was it to have money, if there was nothing you could buy”, she asked.
Photo by Mark Burgunder Sr.
Her talk took place in what was once Napoleon’s fort, and is now a museum housing memorabilia and information about the Serbian and Montenegrin attacks on Dubrovnik, a World Heritage site.
In case you’re wondering about the picture of the soldier on her right, that’s Orlando. His statue currently is located in the main square, where in days of old, decrees were read and citizens would gather to be entertained by watching the bad guys get their just punishment. (Don’t judge–they didn’t have TV or the internet back then).
This is what Orlando looks like now. It’s hard to see him, or his all important elbow, because there is a protective barrier surrounding the statue. At some point, he will be removed to have the statue version of a spa treatment, and will be returned, thoroughly restored and rejuvenated..
So who was he, and why did I mention his elbow? Well, legend has it that Orlando was a nephew of Charlemagne. Perhaps you know him by his alias, Roland? More importantly, his right arm, from fingertip to elbow, was used to measure fabric, which was traded in that very square. Why his forearm? I have no idea. It certainly makes as much sense as the inches, feet and yards WE use. By the way, there are only three non-metric countries on this planet: the USA, Liberia and Myanmar (so we are in good company, indeed). Saturday Night Live did a hilarious skit about our use of the “imperial” system. But I digress…
Our return to Dubrovnik’s center via the tram gave us this phenomenal view. By the time we made it to town, however, I had seen enough of the walled city and was more than ready to return to relax on our hotel’s private beach. Little secret: it’s hot in town, and crowded, so I was grateful for free time, my bus ticket and my luxurious hotel.
It may be difficult to see on the map atop this post, but Croatia is rather oddly shaped. The non-French say it is shaped like a bird in flight. To the French it looks like a croissant. To me, it resembles a gerrymandered voting district. Can you see that little gap that gives Bosnia & Herzegovina access to the ocean? Because of that gap, someone traveling just a few miles north from Dubrovnik could be subject to TWO border crossings: leaving Croatia to enter Bosnia, then again when reentering Croatia, and it would happen again when they did their return trip.
While in Dubrovnik, we took a day trip to lovely Kotor, Montenegro, then headed for three nights in Sarajevo, Bosnia, after which we returned to Croatia for 6 more days before heading to Slovenia, for three nights, then heading home. Got that? I don’t have the energy to fit all of that into one post, and you probably wouldn’t want to read one that long anyway, so this post only focuses on Croatia and Montenegro.
Our day trip to Kotor started with a breathtakingly beautiful ride on our private boat. I think it was during that ride that someone dubbed Antonia “the child with power”.
Kotor is a lovely medieval city with palaces, restaurants, gift shops, and like other medieval towns, it had its share of stories and legends, which I promptly forgot. What I didn’t forget was the women we encountered, holding the banner that says “We remember the Morinj camp”, which is where Croatian prisoners were held in deplorable conditions from 1991 until 1992. The banners act as an acknowledgement and an apology for Montenegro’s role in the Balkan War. I found that rather refreshing.
Are you ready for a break from war talk? Instead, let me tell you about Karanic, the Croatian village we visited on our way to Zagreb. OAT trips usually include”a day in the life” of the country’s inhabitants, but this was the first time the “day in the life” included an overnight stay. These encounters are designed to provide an opportunity to see non-tourist areas and get exposure to different aspects of the local culture.
Our group, at Karanic, with Dennis, our host.
I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, but our accommodations exceeded anything I could imagine. The home had sufficient rooms for us all, each with a private bath (whew).
The food was delicious. Some of us helped with the cooking–others captured the moments via cell phone photography.
Karanac was a nice interlude before our stay in Zagreb. When we arrived at our hotel, we noticed it was filled with men wearing team shirts. Unbeknownst to me, we were sharing the lobby with the 2018 World Cup champion football team. This became apparent when we passed a building that was plastered with a photo of the guys we had just seen in the lobby. If only I were a sports fan…
Zagreb had experienced an earthquake in 2020, so some of the buildings were still being repaired. Still, as you can see, the city offers something for everyone. I can’t offer commentary on these attractions, because I didn’t sample any of them.
What I CAN tell you is the Bornstein Winery is not to be missed. It was educational, delicious, and oh so much fun! Six of us visited there during our free time. Who knew that a Croatian immigrant took zinfandel vines to California many years ago?
There is a whole lot more I can say about Croatia, and the other countries on this fabulous trip. Maybe someday I will, but right now, it’s time to prepare for the next adventure. I hope you’ll come along!
Timing is everything in life, and right now, the jury is still out as to whether my timing is extremely foolhardy or rather brilliant.
I booked the Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) trip to Egypt in late February of 2023. For years, I’ve wanted to visit Petra, and OAT’s trip offered the opportunity to spend five nights in Jordan, prior to the start of the main trip in Egypt. OAT limits their trips to a maximum of 16 travelers, and their single rooms get snapped up quickly, so I knew if I hesitated, I would lose out. I also knew that it would be wise to spend the my first holidays without Mike, Sandy, and my dad away from home.
You’d have to be living in a cave on a deserted island not to know that things changed in the Middle East rather dramatically on October 7, when Hamas attacked Israel. Given Jordan’s proximity to Israel, one might question the wisdom of traveling so close to a war zone. In fact, MANY questioned that decision. So, I figured I’d share my thought process. (Yes, I actually DID put some thought into the decision to “stay the course”.)
Take a look at the visual atop this post. You will see (as I did, because I did indeed look) that Jordan is on Israel’s eastern border, and the Gaza Strip is on the west, with quite a few miles separating Gaza from Amman and Petra. Here’s a more detailed view of where we will be while in Jordan.
The parts of Egypt that I will be visiting are even further away from the action. The following map provides an overview of the main trip, including the two internal flights and the Nile cruise.
These are all familiar places, but for those interested in more detail, check out the map below. Lots of new names!
I’m comforted by the knowledge that OAT has, in the past, canceled trips whenever there is even a remote chance for danger. In fact, this particular trip offered a choice of two pre-trips, either Jordan or Israel. Not surprisingly, the Israel pre-trip has been canceled.
The wonderful members of the Facebook Group, “Friends of Overseas Adventure Travel”, who have recently, or are currently following my itinerary have been posting photos and urging us future travelers not to cancel. They feel safe and welcome. An added bonus? They have reported that the sites are not crowded!
I’ll confess, getting to Amman is no picnic. Departure day started with NPR announcing flight cancellations at JFK and Newark airports, then the neighborhood Facebook forum was full of inquiries about flooded roads. I kept a careful eye on my United app, which assured me that everything would go as planned. And it did.
I left Newark at 7:30 PM to arrive in Frankfurt a little after 9 AM, which to my body is 3 AM. Normally, l prefer to travel with carry on only. But not when the Frankfurt airport is part of the itinerary. Every time I’ve flown into Frankfurt, the plane has parked in East No-Jetway-land and this trip was no exception. We carried our luggage down the stairs, then crammed into a bus that deposited us at one of the Terminal 1 concourses. Sometimes it’s the concourse you want, sometimes it’s not. This time it was not. It took a while for me to figure that out, because the gate for my flight to Amman was not showing up on the board. Eventually, I learned that I needed to get into the VERY long line for (what else) the bus to concourse B, and then walk down two flights, with my blessedly light carry on bag slung over my shoulder.
Fortunately, OAT was offering reasonably priced business class flights. Business class usually comes with lounge access, so while at home, I checked out their lounge using this helpful link that a member of Friends of OAT sent. Hanging out for 6 hours in the airport didn’t seem so bad given the showers and sleeping facilities the link promised.
Guess what? That lounge was a HUGE disappointment. Yes, there were 4 leather “beds” but there was no door to the room, and based on the clanging noises, I suspect it was near the kitchen. Still, I was able to get about an hour’s rest. It was downhill after that. The shower room was frigid — I didn’t want to remove my sweater, never mind the rest of my clothes—and that lounge had the WORST food ever! I actually left the lounge early to hang out at the gate instead. Maybe the good stuff is all in the First Class lounge?
Business class between Frankfurt and Amman is nothing special. The middle seat is unoccupied, so you at least get a little more room. I guess this explains why business class was so affordable. But enough of the bitchin’ and moanin’. In a little more than 4 hours, I’ll be in Jordan!
I started this blog in 2011, when my husband chose not to go on a bike trip with me. I was convinced that when he read my blog and saw all the fun my photos captured, he would surely have a change of heart. OF COURSE he would want to accompany me the next time I decided to see the countryside via two wheels. Boy, was I ever wrong! Despite my sparkling narrative and museum quality photos, he never chose to experience a bike trip, or to become a Global Volunteer. He did, however, enjoy my blog, so when I embarked on solo journeys, my blog became a way for him to share in the adventures from the comfort of our home.
Most of the time, however, we traveled together. My blog became a supplement to our memories of our fun times. And, given that our minds were no longer as sharp as they were when we started traveling 23 years ago, it provided a way for us to check back and see whether we actually DID visit certain places and if we did, what year it happened.
Bariloche, in February, 2019, before Covid rocked everyone’s world and disrupted our ability to travel.
I was in Ireland when Mike got the news that his cancer had returned. After my solo trip to Ireland, we had planned to meet in London, spend a few days there and then go on to Paris. Instead, I returned home to join him for his appointment at Memorial Sloan Kettering. His doctor gave us the shattering news that the average life span for someone with Mike’s form of cancer was about 18 months. It was even worse. Mike only lived 4 more months.
Mike was not my only loss. Four months earlier, my younger sister died suddenly from a mysterious infection. Not only were she and Mike my travel buddies, they were also my emergency contacts (Mike when I traveled with Sandy, Sandy when I traveled with Mike). To say I was devastated would be putting it mildly.
Celebrating our July birthdays in Lucca, in 2012.
I had heard that grief can cause the bereaved to act in strange ways. It certainly was true for me. Within a week of Mike’s death, I had booked a ridiculously expensive trip around the world on a private jet. The next morning I awoke, came to my senses, and immediately canceled that trip. Instead, I thought about the number of trips I could take for that same amount of money and began planning them. It has been quite therapeutic.
I soon discovered that I didn’t want to be home for our milestones: I spent October 15, the anniversary of the day Mike and I met, in Slovenia. Although I had started to blog again while in Albania, I found myself thinking, “what’s the point? Mike and Sandy won’t be reading this”.
My first year end holidays without Mike will be spent in Egypt. We had seen the pyramids together for our 25th anniversary, and were planning to return in March of 2023, but the return of Mike’s cancer obviously disrupted those plans.
Our first trip to Egypt, in 2001
Mike died in February of 2023, exactly a month before the departure of the trip we had selected. But something tells me a part of him will be with me in the Valley of the Kings.
I continue to remind myself how very lucky I am. Mike and I had 47 years together. Through good times and bad, we managed to accumulate a lifetime of wonderful memories. Most importantly, we produced an amazing son, who is a constant source of comfort.
May 2018, Yellowstone
My son reminded me to focus on what I HAVE, not what I have lost. So here’s one of the many things I still have: the ability to travel whenever and wherever I want. These are all enormous blessings that I will never take for granted. And if the spirit moves me, I’ll blog about it. Maybe it will become a part of the healing process.
I spent the majority of my first full day in Tirana walking around the city, exploring two of the attractions recommended in my OAT Final Documents booklet. First stop was at the Komiteti-Kafe Museum for an “American coffee” and a look at what was described as Soviet Era artifacts. I don’t know whether what I found qualified as Soviet “stuff”. It appeared much too whimsical and colorful, two adjectives that I suspect were never used to describe the USSR.
I probably wouldn’t put the coffee shop on a list of top attractions, but the walk getting there and back was fun. Tirana has lots of green space, bike lanes and pedestrian walkways— and I do love to explore on foot.
I had to get closer to the beautiful mosque appearing in the distance. A gift from the Turkish government, it is, and will remain, closed until Erdogan arrives for a dedication ceremony.
Man oh man, Tirana is BOOMING! Lots of new construction everywhere. During the ride from the airport, I noticed the very drab, but functional architecture, presumably from the Soviet era. The current construction is colorful, joyous and oh, so interesting!
I had no idea what this building would become until our tour on my second day with our pre-trip guide. Ilir took us along a different street. He told us the colored squares will become classrooms in this future digital center.
It is difficult to see the pyramid behind the trees. If you’d like a better view and a history of the pyramid, click here. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyramid_of_Tirana. The steps were added to allow people to safely climb to the top. Previously they were clambering up the smooth sides, then sliding down!
One advantage to being on your own is you can stop to take photos whenever you like, and I liked to do that a lot. I loved this bridge. While on it, you have access to free wi-fi, which I didn’t need because I had switched to TMobile. Unlike Verizon, international access is free for everything except voice calls. (Thanks to the Facebook page “Friends of OAT” for educating me about internet access outside of the USA). Knowing I could consult google maps whenever I wanted enabled me to wander freely without fear of getting lost.
As I made my way to the Sali Shijaku House (OAT’s other recommendation), I walked thru Tirana’s Castle, which was taken over by the Topani family in 1798. I had seen the Topani name everywhere, most prominently at the nearby mall entrance, and wondered what the word meant. A plaque before the castle explained that Topani is the name of a noble family “rich and educated with strong ties to the Ottoman Empire and the west which they used to help the country while it took the independence road.” The plaque goes on to explain the rivalry between the Topanis and the Barginis which was ultimately resolved by intermarriage. Just think, if the Montagues and Capulets had used intermarriage to resolve their disputes Shakespeare wouldn’t have had material for Romeo and Juliet.
Not much remains of the original castle structure other than these walls and something called a “Bailey”. (You won’t see a photo of the Bailey because I have no idea what it is). Walking thru that arch brings you to a walkway with lovely shops and an abundance of restaurants, one of which I chose for lunch.
I had a wonderful inexpensive lunch with a glass of sparkling wine at this restaurant.
But back to the home of the artist Sali Shijaku, my second destination. After exploring his residence, which is filled with his paintings, I sat in the garden and enjoyed the ambiance while sipping a cup of tea. It’s hard to believe that over the years, this 300 year old structure has been a hospital, women’s prison and military building.
Some other sights from my walk thru Tirana:
Topani Mall across from our hotel. Although not colorful, this building’s three dimensional structure appealed to me. The new building towers over the old church tower.
After exploring, I returned to the hotel to meet 4 of my traveling companions. After a brief walk with our guide, we got to know each other over dinner at Roxana Tuna House. As is often the case on OAT trips, they are all friendly and so very interesting. That’s another reason I enjoy traveling with OAT—congenial companions. We will meet the last couple tomorrow because they encountered flight delays.
Time to stop babbling about this wonderful city and get some rest.
2020 was supposed to be Mike’s and my biggest travel year ever. It feels like a lifetime ago that we booked trips to Croatia, Germany, Japan and Egypt. We (more likely the optimist of this twosome) were so confident that covid would be over in several months that we didn’t take a cash refund. Instead we opted for travel credits with bonus incentives.
Fast forward three and a half years. I’m now working my way through those credits, beginning with this trip to Eastern Europe, which starts with OAT’s pre-trip to Tirana, Albania.
One of the many reasons I enjoy traveling with Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) is the ability to customize my trip. I figure if I’m going to subject my body and my money to a cross Atlantic flight, I’m going to stay for as long as I can, so in addition to the pre-trip, I decided to fly in a day early to get acclimated.
So far, everything has gone smoothly, starting with a great experience on Austrian Air. Passport control at Tirana’s airport was incredibly efficient. You scan your passport, which opens a gate, then get your picture taken, which opens a second gate and you’re DONE. It was so FAST. But the time I gained at passport control, I lost in bumper to bumper traffic on the way to the Oxford hotel. It took over an hour to go 11 miles, making me feel like I was back in Houston, Texas. The timing actually worked out fine, because by the time I got to the hotel, I only had to wait about 10 minutes for my room to be ready.
The room is small, but lovely, with a shower that makes the standard size in cruises look huge by comparison. I suspect I’ll be missing Mike even more than usual tomorrow morning, because when we traveled, he always showered first, figuring out how the fixtures worked, and setting the temperature just right for me. (It’s always those little things that do you in when you lose your spouse).
Take a look—no need for a bidet in this bathroom. All you have to do is swivel and lift your butt. That is, if you can figure out which faucet turns on which of the two shower heads. Yes, tomorrow will indeed be interesting because there’s not a lot of room for error. Fortunately we learned the ‘towel on the shower floor’ trick because I’ll bet that marble makes the floor extremely slippery when wet! I just hope that floor drain isn’t clogged!
But enough bathroom humor. What about the town, you ask? I remember Laura, our guide in Patagonia telling us, “There’s no such thing as bad weather; only inappropriate clothing choices.” Fortunately, I packed appropriately, and checked the weather so I wasn’t daunted by the rain. It also helps that the Oxford is perfectly located—right across from a mall ( where I bought 3 liters of water for less than $1), close to ATMS, cafes and restaurants, squares and sights. I love the art on the sides of buildings.
Wonder which of these books would be banned in America? This is a very strange image. What is the artist trying to say?
I was surprised that George W Bush had a major street named after him in Tirana. I recall the people in Africa revered him because of his involvement during the AIDS crisis. But Albania? Clearly he has his admirers—and some detractors— who covered his name with stickers.
Tirana is full of surprises—here’s another: The Italian Institute of Culture building. I know from experience that Albanians make fantastic Italian food. My favorite Italian restaurant is run by Albanians. Clearly there is a bond between those two countries that I will explore with my guide when I meet him tomorrow.
What’s with that zig-zaggy structure in front of the building? Is it a picnic table? A runway? An altar for sacrificing virgins?
This area was once part of the Ottoman Empire, so I was not surprised when I passed a mosque just in time for the call to prayer. If you want to check out the weather and share in the mosque experience, here’s the YouTube link. I wasn’t successful uploading the video to WordPress. Maybe this will work. https://youtube.com/shorts/RXIjSq3ElqM?si=BxfwMJnXN6hBMHFd
On the MAIN trip, which starts on Sunday, we will travel to Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia & Herzegovina, ending up in Slovenia. My friend Augusta will be joining me in Dubrovnik for the main trip. She frequently traveled with Mike and me in the past, prompting one of our fellow travelers to dub Mike “the man who travels with two wives”.
Below is a visual of our journey through some of the former Yugoslavian countries.
Tomorrow or Wednesday, I will connect with the 6 travelers that opted for the pre-trip, then on Sunday, we will join with the remaining 9 travelers in our group of 16.
Full disclosure: I wrote this post so that I would have a permanent reminder of four fun filled days with three dear friends, because quite frankly, my memory just ain’t what it used to be. But anyone thinking about visiting Traverse City might enjoy duplicating parts of the itinerary that Sally had so thoughtfully put together for us.
Jeannie, Laurie, Sally and I met during various Global Volunteer Projects over the past 11 years. That’s one of the best parts about volunteering— you make some amazing friendships. This was the first time that all four of us were together, (although we have had various combos of three), so our main objective was to relax and enjoy each other’s company.
Sally lives in Traverse City’s historical district, within walking distance of downtown’s restaurants and shops. The homes are charming, (all shapes and sizes) and the gardens are breathtaking. Even if we had only hung out on Sally’s front porch, sipping coffee (then progressing to wine) that would have been quite enough to make our trip super special.
Our first evening started with before dinner drinks at the Beacon Lounge atop the Park Place Hotel. At 10 stories, I think it is the highest vantage point in the entire downtown area, providing a spectacular view of Lake Michigan.
On our way to the bar, we encountered some local color – this Colonel Sanders look alike, standing outside the local bookstore, hawking his many literary works. This was the first time any of us had seen an author OUTSIDE a bookstore, which convinced us we should just “walk on by” as that old Dionne Warwick song suggested.
Our dinner was at Amical. I don’t remember what I had–I just recall every one of us being quite happy with our choices. Had we been millennials, we would have whipped out our phones and given the restaurant five stars on Yelp.
The rest of our time together was spent taking advantage of only some of the many area delights. We started with the “Magic Shuttle Bus” which transported us to four area vineyards. Jonathan, our driver/ guide was every bit as colorful as his wardrobe and as magical as the bus.
Hawthorne Winery, Bowers Harbor, Chateau Chantal and Benovo were the wineries we visited, in that order.
Jonathan told us that Hawthorn Winery’s high altitude forces the grapes’ roots to grow deep, something that is supposed to produce excellent red wines, so of course I ordered a flight of reds.
Hawthorn’s pours were, to me, very generous. Unlike California’s wineries, Michigan’s do not provide spit buckets, so the expectation is that you will finish your entire glass(es). With three more wineries to go, it didn’t take long for smart gals like us to figure out we needed to start pacing ourselves.
We also determined that if Hawthorne had the area’s best red wines, we might want to stick to the whites, and if the amount poured was typical of the area, we should only go for a glass, instead of a flight—which we did.
Although the weather was uncooperative, our spirits were not dampened by the mist and rain drops. It just provided us with the perfect opportunity to catch the Barbie movie at the nearby theater. General consensus—it was a great way to spend a rainy afternoon. We all loved the movie.
That evening, we cruised across Lake Michigan, enjoying “sea shanties” performed by this group. We had all hoped to be able to see the stars, away from city lights, but the skies were uncharacteristically cloudy. That didn’t stop us from having a wonderful time. And of course, the fact that we could buy adult beverages while cruising absolutely added to the enjoyment.
We couldn’t leave the area without visiting the famous dunes at Sleeping Bear National Park. One would think that this sign at the top of the very steep incline would dissuade everyone from venturing down to the water’s edge. One would be oh, so very wrong.
It was difficult to capture the steepness of the slope in one photo, but if you look closely, you can see those on the upward route were bent over, using their hands (and sometimes knees) to make it back. Even watching others struggle to get back didn’t stop those intent on traveling to the bottom.
But please don’t think that we lacked the spirit of adventure. We just chose a somewhat tamer way to enjoy the area’s offerings. Here’s visual proof.
Undoubtedly you are wondering what in the world we are doing. Well, we are kissing the moose. Why, you ask? When we did, a bell was rung in our honor, and the entire restaurant cheered. We also were entitled to buy this tee shirt. Hard to believe, but we both resisted that impulse purchase, contenting ourselves with a photo of us doing the deed. And yes, we DID have to climb on a stepladder to reach Bullwinkle’s snout.
My next adventure will be a visit to the countries that once were a part of the former Yugoslavia. I hope you’ll come along. Although I don’t anticipate kissing any dead animals on THAT trip, I’ll try to find some equally compelling activities for your reading pleasure.
First, let me say that right now I’m having an absolutely wonderful time. I’m with great friends, the sun is shining, we are drinking Prosecco. It doesn’t get much better than this.
Yesterday, however, was a different experience. You know that old saying, “you ain’t seen nothing yet?” Well, that’s what came to mind when we arrived in Palermo. Remember the bad food in Ortigia? The 59 steps in Modica? The “terrifying” ride? Well, we got ‘em all in Palermo, and then some.
That scary ride I described in my last post? Well, yes, that road was indeed narrow and winding, but it wasn’t lined with trash cans, and there were no motorbikes, pedestrians or oncoming traffic on it. Palermo had all that — and more. I would still be recovering from PTSD if I’d been driving, or if Mike had been driving, one of us would probably have filed for divorce. But once again, Diane amazed us all with her calm, proficient driving.
It was MUCH worse than this. People were also flying by on scooters.
After driving down what WE would call alleys, but Italians call streets, we arrived at the “meeting point”. We succeeded in effectively blocking traffic, while we waited for Giovanni to find us. He then guided three of us (with our luggage) to the “bed and breakfast”, leaving Diane blocking traffic until he could return to guide her to a parking lot.
Entrance to Ad Hoc Rooms
Meanwhile, our three heroines were confronted with 59 steps (the exact number of steps as Modica—if my grandmother had been alive she would have called her bookie to “play” that number). Once again, I was grateful to the exercises classes at the Y, because we carried our own bags —and my two weigh about 27 pounds. But the best is yet to come. After our trek, we discovered that Sally and I were not only sharing a room, we were also sharing a bed. Fortunately king sized, but still.
I’ll confess, I was NOT happy. (Neither was Sally). For a brief period, I turned into the Ugly American, muttering, frowning and using my phone to search for alternative lodging. But the thought of carrying those bags DOWN 59 steps, and then someplace else gave us all pause.
My three traveling companions found solace in the cafe across the street, while I, knowing how drunk I would get on an empty stomach, dug into the cheese and salami we’d brought with us. Lo and behold, when I tried to join them, I discovered I couldn’t unlock the lobby’s front door. And I was alone. All alone.
The instructions SHOULD have read “push the button in the middle, wait till the light stops circling and forms an upside down horse shoe shape, grab the handle, then PULL.
After trying every single combo I could think of, except the correct one, I finally called Karen, who willingly walked up those 59 steps to rescue me. I owe her BIG time!
Our dinner that night could not be described as delicious, but the chef acknowledged the lack of culinary excellence by offering us free lemoncello. We ended a rather challenging day on a positive note, and after a good night’s sleep, everything seemed MUCH better!
Time for some photos of the GOOD stuff:
The main altar in the cathedral at Monreale
Mosaics along the walls visualize biblical stories. Check out Eve telling Adam to eat the apple so he’d get smarter, Adam and Eve modeling the latest fig leaf fashions, Abraham getting ready to kill his son and Rebecca at the well. The view of Palermo from MonrealeThe best seats in the house are, of course, in the “royal box”. We got a glimpse during our tour of Teatro Massimo, the third largest opera house in Europe. This fountain was created in Florence and reassembled here in Palermo. Check out the expressions on the statues’ faces.
We had just gotten the hang of Ortigia, easily finding our way around, when it was time to hit the road for Rick Steve’s recommended stop on our way to Modica.
After picking up our rental car, we headed for Noto, following (or trying to follow) Rick’s directions. How many iPhones does it take to get us to the right place? Well, with us, the correct answer is three…using a combo of google and Apple Maps. I’m recommending Diane for sainthood, because she kept her cool driving down impossibly narrow streets, while getting conflicting directions from her three passengers.
We all felt better after our fantastic lunch at Marpessa Restaurant, so we forgave Rick for being somewhat vague with his directions. The restaurant was next to Noto’s historic theater and was the starting point for the little tourist train, so of course, we had to experience both.
The exterior of the theaterThat pair singing a duet looks very familiarIt wasn’t a hop on/hop off. It just circled the town. Was it worth it? In my opinion, Hell, no.
Because of our late start, and a few wrong turns, we arrived in Modica much later than expected. Our rental was billed as an elegant private retreat close to St Georgio’s cathedral in the historic center of Modica. All true, although “center” was a bit of a stretch. Equally true, but unsaid, was the fact that everything was just “steps” away… 59 steps, to be exact, UP from the cathedral (where we were instructed to park) to the little lane where our rental was located. I know, because I counted.
Like many Italian towns, Modica is built into the hillside. We were grateful for the occasional flat surface between the steps. We are on our way to the restaurant 268 steps below
Fortunately, we had all agreed to limit ourselves to one carry on, plus one personal item (backpack/small duffel/large purse, as allowed by ITA). Good thing we all are relatively fit, because although the rental agent helped with 2 of the bags, we carried the remaining 6. Guess what? Roller bags don’t work well on stairs.
Our vacation rental in Modica is absolutely beautiful. The three level patio has a hot tub, dining table and lots of chairs for lounging. And we are undoubtedly ladies who lounge. We also eat and drink wine. Lots of wine.
Our home for three nights has some rather exotic features, like my round bed, with a jacuzzi located right behind it.
No, this ISN’T the Poconos.
After frolicking in the jacuzzi, you don’t have far to go to have a different religious experience. Check out how close we are to the cathedral. You can see the dome from our patio. Not only that, but you can HEAR the bells ringing — at 8 AM, noon and 8 PM. Some church bells are lovely. These are not. They sound like someone threw multiple metal instruments into a washing machine and pressed SPIN.
This is what the dome looks like from the inside
Lorenzo, our rental agent, and new best friend, has been a regular visitor. Why? Because four reasonably intelligent, well educated and relatively successful women were unable to: unlock the front door (after returning from dinner our first night), start the dishwasher (our second night), and get the dryer part of the combo washer/dryer to actually dry our wet clothes. The clothes got HOT, but were still wet. How can that be???
It looks like we may have a trifecta of Lorenzo visits, because after heating for two days, the hot tub is actually only a warm tub. We leave for Enna tomorrow morning, so this evening is our last chance to use it.
Despite a few minor glitches, I have to say I love this place and will be sorry to leave it tomorrow. We had fun grocery shopping, cooking together (mostly done by Karen and Diane with Sally and I being a grateful and appreciative audience) and just hanging out.
Do you prefer organized tours or would you rather choose your own itinerary and pace? There are definite advantages to both modes of travel, and I enjoy each. I’ve discovered that the key to maximizing pleasure is to understand exactly WHY you are taking the trip. Is your goal to see as many sights as possible? Or do you hanker for a slower pace, enjoying the companionship of a few close friends?
Lucky me—I’ve been able to do both types of trips to Sicily, so I can compare and contrast. You see, in 2017, my husband and I took an Overseas Adventure Trip (OAT), spending 16 days based in Palermo, Mazara, Piazza Armerina, Ragusa, and Catania.
Currently I’m traveling with three good friends, who planned everything, and are willing to do all the driving. Not surprisingly, this trip is far less structured than the OAT trip. Although we will be based in different cities: Ortigia, Modica, Enna, Palermo and Taormina, we will be covering similar ground.
Our first two days were somewhat grueling, with an overnight flight to Rome, followed by an afternoon flight to Catania, and a 45 minute ride to our first hotel, Algila Ortigia Charme Hotel, our home for three nights.
Across the street from our hotel
They say you can’t get a bad meal in Italy. Well, Sally and I accomplished the impossible, with TWO bad meals—a dinner on our first night and lunch on the second. Breakfasts, on the other hand, were at the hotel and were fantastic!
The world’s worst pizza. Fortunately, Sally was able to see the humor of the experience
We finally wised up and avoided the places around tourist attractions. All meals henceforth were at restaurants down little side streets and THAT is where the food exceeded expectations.
Trattoria Archimede on Via CavourKaren and Diane on left, Sally and me on right
Also on Via Cavour was an abundance of little shops. We discovered Sebastian’s shop, in which he was selling various flavors of ‘cello. After sampling several, Diane and I, slightly drunk by then, purchased limoncello and almondcello.
Definitely worth a visit!Of course, we had to make purchases here. A magnet for me and a mobile for Diane and Karen
Although we did see the normal Ortigia sites, over our three night stay, it was at a much slower pace than when Mike and I visited. For our OAT trip, we only spent a half a day in Ortigia, and saw the same attractions. Of course, we didn’t spend as much time being lost and confused, because we had a guide. We also didn’t sleep as late either.
I am grateful to Sally, Diane and Karen for including me on this trip—my first since Mike died. It is comforting to be among good friends while I process my loss.
Destination NOW 