Fontainbleau

I was totally surprised by how much I am loving OAT’s pre-trip to Fontainebleau and Bayeux. We spend three nights in each place, at centrally located hotels. Both are very walkable, and the best part? Even I haven’t gotten lost!

Obviously, the draw for Fontainebleau is the chateau. One of many royal residences, it is the biggest, with 1,500 VERY ornate rooms spread over three floors. Just about every square inch of the areas open to the public —parts of the first and second floors of the main building — is completely covered with some form of art work.

Check out the chateau’s floor plan: you walk THROUGH each room to get to the next. This was similar to the design of Schonbrunn, the Hapsburg’s summer palace in Vienna. I guess royalty didn’t mind a lack of privacy. Yes, there are huge doors on either side of the room, but think about this: What happens if you need to get to a room, but the door to the room before it is closed? Do you have to go all the way around? Those hallways are really, really LONG!

Take a look at Napoleon’s second wife’s bedroom—Marie Louise, the Austrian princess he married after he dumped Josephine. You see that railing around the bed? No one was allowed inside the railing, without her permission. I guess the doors weren’t enough.

Napoleon’s bedroom was a few rooms down from Marie Louise’s. His was the only one of the MANY beds I saw that had steps along side it. Was the precursor of today’s doggie stairs?

The library was my favorite room.

Are you wondering how people were able to find each other? They didn’t have intercoms or cell phones, which is probably a good thing. I have enough trouble finding mine and I have 1,490 fewer rooms.

One last room before we head outside: the ballroom. Notice the balcony at the back. I’ll bet that’s where the moms sat so they could keep an eye on their daughters. The alcoves, I suspect, was where the ladies sat, waiting to be asked to dance.

Although the weather report predicted rain, we were unbelievably lucky to have perfect weather, which allowed me to thoroughly enjoy the wonderful grounds surrounding the chateau.

The gardens stretch as far as I could see, until they reach the forest.

After all that opulence and sensory overload, the serenity of the English and French gardens provided a needed respite.

I loved the whimsical statues scattered throughout the gardens.

This, I was told, is a sphinx. It was quite unlike anything I’d seen in Egypt, but our guide explained that the French take inspiration from other countries, then add their own touches.

Garry took the group photo of Marie, Susan, me, Jim and James. Donna and Kathy didn’t join us during our free afternoon.

On the drive to Bayeux, we stopped at Giverny, home of Claude Monet. Like Barbizon, it is a tiny village that art enthusiasts visit. Unlike Barbizon, it was really crowded.

Although it was too early in the season for many water lilies to be in bloom, there were plenty of other gorgeous perennials to enjoy.

It is easy to see where Monet found inspiration for his art.

After enjoying the lily pond and the gardens, we were able to tour Monet’s home.

Like Fontainebleau, the walls were covered with artwork.

For some reason, however, I didn’t find the artwork overwhelming.

Clearly, I prefer the simple life. I’d much rather wake up in a bedroom like Monet’s than any of the ones I saw in Fontainebleau!

Monet’s studio is now the gift shop. It was huge, with lots of natural light. Reproductions of his water lilies were stretched across two of the walls.

Next post—Bayeux.

French Impressions

Some people join bereavement groups. Me, I travel. As you can see from the map, this OAT trip’s itinerary will include Paris, of course, but there’s a whole lot more, including places I’d never heard of before. The last time I was in Paris was in 1976 while Mike and I were traveling through Europe on our honeymoon, so this return will undoubtedly be bittersweet.

There are 8 of us on the pre-trip to Fontainebleau; we will meet up with the remaining 8 in 6 days when we start the main trip in Angers.

I was surprised to discover the flight cost for business class was only a couple of hundred dollars more than economy plus. I’m never going to figure out airline pricing! Booking on my own, rather than thru OAT was more than $2,000 cheaper! Sometimes that happens. Ah, the power of the internet.

It was well worth $200+ to choose business over economy plus, just to have a single seat with window on one side and aisle on the other. No climbing over, to get to the bathroom, from my lay flat bed. The additional benefit is luggage is tagged “priority”, so it is among the first to be taken off the plane. Although normally I try to do carry on only, this will be my first trip with a CPAP machine, so I decided to pack it in my duffle, take additional clothes and not worry about laundry during the trip. I couldn’t believe how quickly both my luggage and I were off the plane. We landed at 7:45 AM and I was thru passport control, in the taxi, leaving the airport by 8:30. That’s even including the time I stopped to brush my teeth!

After the 13 hour flights to and from Japan, I expected the seven and a half hour flight to be easy. And it was. Still, I’m taking it slower than I did in my younger days to adjust to the 6 hour time difference.

We started our first full day of the pre-trip in Barbizon, with a watercolor lesson. Patricia, our teacher, very kindly declared our efforts were “tres bien”. (She didn’t add “for a bunch of first graders’, but I’ll bet she thought it). But that’s okay. We all had great fun.

I’ve decided my two masterpieces are definitely refrigerator-worthy. If asked, I’ll just say my son did them when he was seven.

I found the tiny town of Barbizon completely charming— full of architecturally interesting buildings and art where you’d least expect to see it. Mounted on many of the buildings, for example, were mosaics of famous paintings, like “the Angelus” by Millet

The lunch place
What sculptors do when a tree dies

Our post lunch stroll took us through the forest where the painters would hang out, waiting for inspiration to strike. Clearly it did, otherwise they wouldn’t have gotten this honorary plaque attached to one of the forest’s many boulders. (That’s Millet and Rousseau, in case you’re wondering).

My favorite rock formation, however, was this naturally occurring one — can you see the elephant?

We had a few minutes before our taxi picked us up to return us to our hotel in Fontainebleau, so we took a quick turn thru a nearby sculpture garden. It wasn’t as grand as Hakone’s Open Air Museum, but then, what is? Still, these pieces are pretty delightful!

After returning to the hotel, Marie, our trip leader, had a final surprise for us. We gathered in the lobby to experience the impressionists’ favorite drink, (and supposedly the cause of some of their mental problems, )Absinthe.

You don’t just dump absinthe into a glass. Oh no. There is a process. You carefully pour the liquor into an ice filled glass, next placing a sugar cube (like so) upon a specially designed spoon, then slowly pour cold water on the sugar cube so that it dissolves and seeps through the spoon’s holes into the drink. I enjoyed the experience, but red wine is still my beverage of choice.